After all my trips up north there were still areas I hadn’t got to so I decided to do an infill loop of the Pilbara. Primary target was the Marble Bar area which I had managed to bypass repeatedly.
My health was still not ideal but much better than it had been in January. I also wanted to take a more relaxed approach by staying in places more than just one night where practical.
Day 1 - 3/5/2023
I set off ‘up the middle’ again stopping at Moora for lunch on the way to Coalseam Conservation Park. Coalseam is a quiet off the beaten track location outside of wildflower season.
Drove 410km
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| Moora pub |
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| Even the farm machinery is big |
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| Dusk at Coalseam camp |
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| Sunset over the river bed |
Day 2 - 4/5/2023
Pottered about camp searching for birdlife.
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| Number 28 |
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| Galah |
Day 3 - 5/5/2023
Launched the drone for a couple of pics on the way out then made my way to Ballinyoo Bridge Murchison River for lunch. The river was running quite strongly after recent rain. Continued on to Wooramel River for the night, another favourite. Quite a bit more of this road has been sealed since I first drove it back in 2019. Refuelled at Murchison Oasis.
Drove 400km
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| Irwin River crossing |
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| Irwin River cutting |
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| Murchison River at Ballinyoo Bridge |
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| Strong flow |
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| Murchison Oasis |
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| Wooramel River crossing |
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| Wooramel Gorge campsite |
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| Wooramel Gorge |
Day 4 - 6/5/2023
Spent the day wandering about and taking in the remote solitude. Pulled the camp oven out and made a damper in the hot coals.
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| Semi permanent water in the gorge |
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| Yummy fresh damper |
Day 5 - 7/5/2023
Headed toward yet another favourite, Mundatharrda Kennedy Range for a few nights to test the legs out. Climbed up to the spit and had no drama walking right out to the end this time. All the precipitous hiking/climbing in Italy had inured me.
Drove 220km
Hiked 1.7km including 93m ascent
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| My road not yours! |
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| Typical wide floodway |
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| Gascoyne River pool |
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| Mundatharrda camp |
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| Continuous cliff face |
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| Campground below |
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| The end of ‘The Spit’ |
Hike deets
Day 6 - 8/5/2023
Hiked up to the escarpment carrying the drone for some pics and wandered about off piste to see if I could find a way down into Draper Gorge (no dice). Also tried to find a way up from Draper Gorge but nothing presented itself.
Hiked 8km including 221m ascent
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| Great colours |
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| Going up |
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| At the top |
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| Looking along Draper Gorge |
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| From the air |
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| The head of Draper Gorge |
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| Pool at the head of Draper Gorge |
Hike deets
Day 7 - 9/5/2023
Took a wander along the base of the escarpment to Sunrise View.
Hiked 8.2km including 113m ascent
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| A boulder split in two |
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| Huge blocks |
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| Sunrise View |
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| Cheers |
Hike deets
Day 8 - 10/5/2023
It started raining as I decamped and moved on. This time I turned north to explore the route to the North West Coastal Hwy via Ullawara Rd. and Lyndon-Minnie Creek Rd. Ended up finding an isolated campsite at Mangaroon Creek on the Ullawara Rd. Had a wander about and launched the drone. The rain had stopped so I extended the awning to dry it out.
Drove 105km
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| Raining |
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| Mt Sandiman |
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| You first… |
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| Turning left |
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| Mangaroon Creek |
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| Bush camp |
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| From the air |
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| Golden Orb spider |
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| Nice night |
Day 9 - 11/5/2023
Upped stumps and headed for the North West Coastal Hwy along Lyndon-Minnie Creek Rd. At this point I realised I was in Exmouth Whale Shark season so I drove toward Exmouth until I got mobile reception to make a booking. The best I could do was in five days time so I rejigged my plan to fit in a detour northward to Onslow then backtrack to Exmouth.
Ended up free camped on the Ashburton River at Old Onslow. Great location.
Drove 345km
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| Weird stuff out here |
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| North West Coastal Hwy intersection |
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| Booking made |
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| Ashburton River camp |
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| Along the campground area |
Day 10 - 12/5/2023
Spent the day poking about the camp area.
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| From the air |
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| Watering the cattle |
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| Orb spider |
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| Whistling kite |
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| Cheers |
Day 11 - 13/5/2023
Decamped and headed for Exmouth after crossing the Ashburton below Scotty’s Wall.
Drove 410km
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| The crossing |
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| Upstream while on the crossing |
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| Fresh / salt water barrier |
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| Road to Old Onslow |
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| Parry Range |
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| Main Highway |
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| Ningaloo Caravan Park |
Day 12 - 14/5/2023
Pottered about getting ready for an early pick up to head out on the whale shark tour tomorrow.
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| Visitors |
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| Big prawn |
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| Cheers |
Day 13 - 15/5/2023
And now for something completely different. Such a humbling experience. Gentle giants. Bloody hard to keep up with them though, even using big swim fins.
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| Ningaloo |
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| Access lighter |
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| End of day |
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| My pic |
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| Pro filtered pic |
Day 14 - 16/5/2023
Time to get out of the hustle and bustle of Exmouth after a great experience yesterday. Took a shortened detour up Shothole Canyon then headed back to the North West Coastal Highway and north again to find a free bush camp at Cane River. Stopped in at Nanutarra RH to refuel.
Drove 350km
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| Shothole Canyon |
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| Burkett Rd rest area |
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| Ashburton River at Nanutarra RH |
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| Mt Murray |
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| Cane River free bush camp |
Day 15 - 17/5/2023
Flew the drone before departing and headed toward Pannawonica to travel across the plateau to Stargazers at Millstream NP. Stopped in at Robe River for a look.
Drove 190km
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| Robe River |
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| Robe River bridge |
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| Along Pannawonica Rd |
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| Pannawonica Rd from the air |
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| Up on the plateau between Pannawonica and Millstream NP |
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| Ever present remote iron ore train lines |
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| Pilbara colours |
Day 16 - 18/5/2023
A lazy day hanging about camp.
Day 17 - 19/5/2023
Rose early to have a look at nearby Deep Reach pool but way too cold for a swim. A short drive across to the Chichester side of the national park which was a noted ‘must return’ location from an earlier trip. Found a nice little secluded location within walking distance of Python Pool and the trail head for the Camel Trail.
Drove 60km
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| Chichester Range area |
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| Spnifex every which way |
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| From a lookout on the Python Pool access road |
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| My hideaway |
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| Amazing tenacity |
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| Perfect Pilbara |
Day 18 - 20/5/2023
Big day today with an early start to tackle the Camel Trail to Mount Herbert and back down via the road to camp.
Hiked 15.6km including 429m ascent
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| Python Pool is in there |
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| Looking for breakfast |
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| Off I go |
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| Going up |
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| Sensational early morning view |
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| Holly Grevillia |
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| Big ant hill |
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| Rough spot to grow |
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| Mount Herbert in the distance |
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| Last pinch to the top |
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| Up top |
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| Going back along the road |
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| Love this landscape |
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| Python Pool to cool off |
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| Big yabbie out of Python Pool |
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| Heading back to camp |
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| Lovely evening again |
Hike deets
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| Going up |
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| Going down |
Day 19 - 21/5/2023
Up early again to improvise a trail on the north side of the access road further up the hill. I really enjoy the landscape variability here. Back to the van and headed northward. Stopped at Pyramid Hill to consider a climb. It became too steep at the top to tackle it alone so I retreated and moved on to the next campsite at Jones River.
Drove 50km
Hiked 4.8km including 294m ascent
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| Python Pool from above |
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| Rugged country |
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| Love the contrast |
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| Pyramid Hill |
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| Too steep for safety |
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| Looking back down |
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| Jones River camp |
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| Curious visitor |
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| Drone’s up |
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| Pretty |
Hike deets
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| Pyramid Hill |
Day 20 - 22/5/2023
Drove to Sth Hedland to resupply before going remote again. Headed toward De Grey River to traverse the River at Mulyie HS crossing. Popped in to the abandoned Whim Creek Hotel. A most wonderful bush campsite beside the river was found.
Drove 290km
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| Good morning! |
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| Whim Creek pub (closed) |
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| The main intersection with Marble Bar Rd |
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| Turtle Head |
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| Heading along the De Grey River |
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| De Grey River Mulyie crossing |
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| The wet bit |
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| Amazing campsite |
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| Wow! |
Day 21 - 23/5/2023
Spent the day in nature appreciation mode.
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| Lush grass |
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| The crossing underfoot |
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| Looking back at the campsite |
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| Up river |
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| Whistling Kite |
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| Damsel Fly |
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| Dragon Fly |
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| Rainbow bee eater |
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| Take off |
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| Australasian grebe |
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| Drone’s up |
Day 22 - 24/5/2023
Decamped and headed toward Doolena Gorge near Marble Bar. A most impressive location indeed. A boon for an off piste hiker like myself as well as an epicentre for bird life.
Drove 60km
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| Doolena Gorge right of centre |
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| Good level of water |
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| My campsite for a few days |
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| Great |
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| Pacific heron |
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| Australian pelican |
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| Open air long drop (decommissioned) |
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| Reflections |
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| White faced heron |
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| Great egret |
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| Little egret |
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| Pizza time |
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| Evening shades |
Day 23 - 25/5/2023
Hike number 1 along the ridge just south of my campsite. Wonderful start.
Hiked 5.1km including 297m ascent
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| Off I go |
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| Going up |
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| Looking back |
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| Looking up the valley |
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| The intended pathway |
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| Up on the ridge |
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| Great views |
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| Looking down on the river |
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| Pelican and little cormorant corner |
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| Across the other side |
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| Colours & shade |
Hike deets
Day 24 - 26/5/2023
Rest day today.
Day 25 - 27/5/2023
Hike number 2 along the ridge to the east of my campsite. I had a little oopsie which required icing.
Hiked 5.5km including 281m ascent
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| The intended route up the cliff |
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| Here I go |
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| Found a narrow slot to climb |
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| First stage |
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| Looking back over the other side |
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| Getting close |
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| Up top of the objective |
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| Going back down the valley floor |
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| Oopsies |
Hike deets
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| Going up |
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| Going down |
Day 26 - 28/5/2023
Hike number 3 along the ridge to the north and west of my campsite.
Hiked 4.6km including 217m ascent
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| That tree is the objective |
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| Looking back |
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| Along the valley below |
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| The tree up there |
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| Made it |
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| Descending via the valley |
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| Tough going |
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| Looking back up from whence I came |
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| Flatter going now |
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| Infinity pool area |
Hike deets
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| Going up |
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| Going down |
Day 27 - 29/5/2023
Hike number 4 along the ridge to the north and east of my campsite. My Garmin went a bit haywire so the numbers are estimates.
Hiked ~3.0km including ~200m ascent
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| Looking down from above |
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| Looking back along the ridge |
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| Higher still |
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| One cairn |
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| More to go |
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| Another cairn |
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| Walking the ‘stegosaurus’ |
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| Painted firetail wow! |
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| Jabiru wow! |
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| Darter |
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| Blue winged kookaburra |
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| Infinity pools from above |
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| Drone’s up |
Hike deets
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| The start was not over there |
Day 28 - 30/5/2023
Finally broke camp to move on. Dropped in to Marble Bar to refuel, fill up with water and have a look around. I then made my way to Meentheena Retreat along Ripon Hills Road.
Drove 135km
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| Found a friend |
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| Jasper at Marble Bar |
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| Chinaman’s Pool |
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| Iron Clad Hotel |
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| Jasper |
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| Marble Bar |
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| Meentheena Retreat |
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| Paperbark campsite |
Day 29 - 31/5/2023
Pulled out the pushie and took a ride along one of the 4WD tracks within the property. I didn’t record anything unfortunately. Launched the drone as well.
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| Flood level sign |
Day 30 - 1/6/2023
Out on the pushie again for a longer ride.
Rode 22.3km including 103m ascent
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| Old Meentheena HS outbuildings |
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| Creek crossing |
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| River bed crossing |
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| Sherlock River |
Ride deets
Day 31 - 2/6/2023
Decamped and headed to Carawine Gorge. One minor creek crossing along the way.
Drove 100km
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| Oakover River on Ripon Hills Rd |
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| Telfer turn off |
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| Carawine Gorge turn off |
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| Small creek crossing |
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| Worth a look |
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| Campsite |
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| Spinifex pigeon |
Day 32 - 3/6/2023
Took an exploratory wander around the top of a nearby mesa outcrop. Launched the drone for some pics as well.
Hiked 4.2km including 122m ascent
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| Drone’s up |
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| Up top |
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| Looking up river |
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| Nice vantage point |
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| Along the river |
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| Hello |
Hike deets
Day 33 - 4/6/2023
Upped stumps and headed toward Woodie Woodie mine to turn west along Skull Springs Rd to Nullagine. The road was rather more like a track for the most part, driving along creek beds at times. Very steep cross falls in others. Stopped at a couple of points of interest along the way to pitch camp at Nullagine Caravan Park.
Drove 180km
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| Woodie Woodie Rd |
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| Skull Springs turn off |
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| Oakover River |
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| Narrow track |
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| Mud rock wall |
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| Old mine pits |
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| Heading into Nullagine |
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| Old mine site |
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| Nullagine hotel |
Day 34 - 5/6/2023
Took a day of rest and recuperation before heading south toward home. Wandered about town and socialised within the park.
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| Nullagine River |
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| Black Kite |
Day 35 - 6/6/2023
Decamped and headed south, fuelled up at Capricorn RH and took a detour toward Wiluna to end up at a free bush camp a little way in from the Great Northern Hwy.
Drove 470km
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| More big mining gear |
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| Roy Hill conveyor structure |
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| Remote bush camp |
Day 36 - 7/6/2023
Made camp at Long Pool on the Canning Stock Route after popping in to CSR Well 2 for a squiz.
Drove 170km
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| Road to Wiluna |
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| Not unusual out here |
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| CSR to Well 2 |
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| CSR Well 2 |
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| Long Pool campsite |
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| Drone’s up |
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| Long Pool |
Day 37 - 8/6/2023
Headed into Wiluna to fill up and headed along the Goldfields Highway to Meekatharra. This is a highway in designation only. A horrible rough dirt surface. Continued on down the ‘main drag’ GNH to arrive at Buntine Rocks to camp in the dark.
Drove 710km
Day 38 - 9/6/2023
A bit of a wander about the trail over the rocks.
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| Buntine Rocks upper camping area |
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| Going up |
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| The rocks |
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| Looking back to camp |
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| Looking out |
Day 39 - 10/6/2023
A day’s R&R reflecting on this latest trip.
Day 40 - 11/6/2023
Homeward bound today.
Drove 310km
**************
Well there it is. I finally got to Marble Bar and found a wonderful surprise in Doolena Gorge nearby. De Grey River crossing at Mulyie HS was also a treat. Throw in swimming with the whale sharks and a pretty satisfying experience in WA.
Drove 5000km in 40 days
Rode 22.3km including 103m ascent
Hiked 59km including 2174m ascent
Highlights:
- Wooramel Gorge
- Mundatharrda
- Chichester Range
- Old Onslow Ashburton River
- Whale sharks at Ningaloo
- Mulyie crossing De Grey River
- Doolena Gorge
- Meentheena Retreat
- Carawine Gorge
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