I had booked into Lucky Bay Campground near Esperance for March 2022 in November 2021, primarily to hike the Coastal Trail. The campground is highly sought after and I had to find a slot between school holiday periods. I turned this trip into a tour of an extended Great Southern region of WA which stretches along the southern coastline from Israelite Bay to Augusta
Day 1 - 28/2/2022
Travelled to Dumbleyung via the Donald Campbell water speed record memorial then camped out the back of the pub. While in the bar, I noticed an old photograph of a bunch of motorcycles on the wall. This piqued my interest as it looked like it was of the vintage that could have included my brother’s exploits years ago. Lo and behold I spotted what appeared to be his special edition BMW so I messaged him and it was indeed. 1985 or around then. Amazing.
Drove 252km
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| Lake Dumbleyung |
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| A model of the Bluebird |
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| A mob of bikes out the front of the Dumbleyung pub |
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| The silver bike with the helmet on the seat |
Day 2 - 1/3/2022
Headed to Peak Charles campground (long drop toilets) via Lake Grace to do some climbing. Heading remote now.
Drove 335km
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| Going bush |
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| There he is |
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| New campsite |
Day 3 - 2/3/2022
Woke to low cloud. Made my first attempt at reaching the summit but got stymied at a rock ledge. It was very windy so I bailed and went back down.
Hiked 2.3km including 234m ascent
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| Misty mountain |
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| Got stymied |
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| A few tricky bits |
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The wind was howling through this saddle
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| Campground below |
Hiking deets
Day 4 - 3/3/2022
Found an alternate route to the top using old school trial and error with majestic views all round.
Hiked 4.6km including 451m ascent
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| Wind still strong through here |
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| The ‘back way’ up |
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| Summit cairn |
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| Found a friend |
Hiking deets
Day 5 - 4/3/2022
Rest & recuperation day today.
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| General camping area |
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| A few largish orb spiders about |
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| A python had made the long drop toilet block home |
Day 6 - 5/3/2022
Drove the short distance to Peak Eleanora trail head and took a walk to the top. The view back to Peak Charles was quite striking above the generally flat plain. Upon return I headed to Condingup sports ground campground for the night.
Drove 260km
Hiked 4.6km including 234m ascent
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| Track to Peak Eleanora |
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| Peak Eleanora parking area |
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| Heading up |
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| Peak Charles in the near distance |
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| A beauty |
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| Getting closer |
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| Not far now |
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| The summit |
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| Exiting onto Coolgardie Esperance Hwy |
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| Condingup camping area |
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| Nice facilities for the locals |
Hiking deets
Day 7 - 6/3/2022
I intended to drive to Israelite Bay along Fisheries Road however soon after entering the Cape Arid NP the track turned to soft sand. This is La Bestia’s weakness as she is quite heavy and the tyres relatively narrow. I also lacked experience and sand recovery equipment for solo driving so decided to turn around and return to Condingup to regroup. I had spotted a mountain range in the distance so I researched more and hoped it was accessible.
Drove 135km
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| The pic on the sign says it all. No Israelite Bay for me this time. |
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| Balladonia ‘road’. Turned to soft sand goat track not far up, no go. |
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| Banksia |
Day 8 - 7/3/2022
I had identified the range as Russel Range / Mount Ragged which was most likely accessible via Parmango Rd and Balladonia Rd so I headed in that direction. Dropped in to say hello to Roger at Deralinya Historic Homestead. Made my way across to Balbinya Homestead ruins then south along ‘Balladonia Rd’ (which is more accurately a 4WD track through the scrub) to Mount Ragged campground.
Drove 180km
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| Deralinya Homestead |
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| Balbinya HS |
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| Balladonia ‘road’ heading south |
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| Pioneer graves |
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| Left to Ragged, right to Condingup |
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| Russel Range |
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| Sunset at camp |
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| Sunset over the range from camp |
Day 9 - 8/3/2022
Set off to climb Tower Peak. A short but steep climb awaited once I had reached the trail head. 460m in 1500m with a bit of scrambling/climbing near the summit.
Hiked 10.5km including 489m ascent
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| The route |
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| Ok path |
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| Interesting eucalypt |
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| Gets tricky near the top |
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| Up there |
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| Access road below |
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| Gotta scramble up this last bit |
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| From the top |
Hiking deets
Day 10 - 9/3/2022
Rest and repair day. I had inadvertently driven over the top of a low divider post in the campground and needed to extricate the vehicle then patch up the plastic guard which ended up damaged. The wind dropped enough for a drone flight as well.
Day 11 - 10/3/2022
Made my way back to Condingup to spend a night prior to getting to my Lucky Bay Campground booking. The location doubles as a holding station for campers awaiting their bookings like I. Nice flat open area with a small toilet block and a tavern nearby.
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| Balladonia Road lol |
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| Some rocky sections |
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| A steepish rocky pinch |
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| Dry lake bed |
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| Mount Ragged sign… |
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| Parmango Road intersection |
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| Rock outcrop near Deralinya |
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| Got so narrow my awning frame ate a branch |
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| Condingup camping area from the air |
Day 12 - 11/3/2022
Decamped and headed for Lucky Bay via Esperance to take a warm shower on the beachfront. Set up camp and realised I had left my hiking boots outside at Condingup and departed without them. I made a hurried dash back to see if they were still there and someone had placed them nicely against a fence post near where I was camped. Whew! They were a primary reason I was down this way…
I arrived back at Lucky Bay and went straight to bed. Tired but relieved.
Day 13 - 12/3/2022
Awoke to the magnificence of this campground. Wow, what a location, no wonder it’s difficult to book in. The contrast in the beach colours is exquisite, almost impossible to describe. More later, it was time to set off to Frenchman Peak 7.5km away from camp. Good climb and sweeping views of Cape Le Grand NP.
Hiked 15km including 306m ascent
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| Good morning from Lucky Bay |
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| Track down to the beach |
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| Sunrise over Mississippi Hill |
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| Campground nestled in the heath |
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| Frenchman Peak |
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| Going up |
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| It’s pretty steep going |
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| Toward Esperance |
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| Toward camp |
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| Looking toward Mount Le Grand |
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| Another outcrop over yonder |
Hiking deets
Day 14 - 13/3/2022
Launched the drone for some pics, then waited for the sun to get higher to go for a swim. The Southern Ocean is very cold… I was fortunate to find a neighbour who was driving into Esperance for resupply so I jagged a lift to the other end of the Coastal Trail tomorrow morning.
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| Lucky Bay campground |
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| Lucky Bay |
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| Thistle Cove |
Day 15 - 14/3/2022
This is pretty much the reason I’m here. To hike the Le Grand Coastal Trail from Le Grand Beach to Rossiter Bay. I ended up only getting to Lucky Bay near dark so I did the last sector from Lucky Bay to Rossiter Bay after a day of rest and recuperation. Such a wonderful coastal hike with far more elevation change than most. The first sector from Le Grand Beach to Mount Le Grand was a good climb to the highest point in the National Park with 399m of ascent. The second from Mt Le Grand to Hellfire Bay provided the most incredible views of the pristine southern WA beaches. The colour contrast is mind blowing.
The third sector from Hellfire Bay to Thistle Cove is tough going and there’s one point where you have to find your way across a narrow gap in the rocks which may be a bit deep at high tide. I got lucky and it was straightforward enough. Fourth sector from Thistle Cove to Lucky Bay was relatively easy but by this stage it was too late in the day to continue. In reality I had gone far enough for one day.
Hiked 15.6km including 1011m ascent
First sector
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| Le Grande beach |
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| Off I go |
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| Decent trail to Mount Le Grand |
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| Rising up |
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| Getting higher |
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| Near the top |
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| Summit |
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| Great vista |
Second sector
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| Frenchman Peak over yonder |
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| The striking colours of Hellfire Bay |
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| Lots of rock outcrop islands |
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| Ornate Dragon |
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| Hellfire Bay. Wow! |
Third sector |
| Banksia everywhere |
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| A little cove east of Hellfire Bay |
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| Cresting the coastal outcrops |
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| Lots of rise and fall along here |
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| Heading down to the water crossing |
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| Just wonderful |
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| Thistle Cove |
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| Along the pristine beach |
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| Thistle monument |
Fourth sector
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| Easier going |
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| Dinosaur rock |
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| Track back to Lucky Bay |
Second/third/fourth sector deets
Day 16 - 15/3/2022
Day of R&R with a swim thrown in. Had a visitor 🦘 in the morning.
Day 17 - 16/3/2022
Time to complete the Coastal Trail so headed off along the Lucky Bay beach towards Mississippi Hill then Rossiter Bay and back to camp via the road. Mississippi Hill provided a tricky climb up steep granite to get to the top. The view was pretty impressive and worth the effort. It appeared that my new friend had returned for the evening. A mandatory celebratory pizza and bubbles was had after my two 15km hikes.
Hiked 15.4km including 418m ascent.
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| First target Mississippi Hill |
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| Sooty Oystercatcher |
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| Climbing the stairs off the beach. The colours! |
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| Going up |
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| A bit tricky/steep here |
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| At the top with Frenchman Peak over there |
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| Sensational |
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| Sandy trail |
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| Hakea |
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| Rossiter Bay |
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| Outcrop along the trail |
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| Nearly done |
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| Heading to the beach |
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| Completed. Time for a swim |
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| Road back to camp |
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| Moved in |
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| Cheers |
Hiking deets
Day 18 - 17/3/2022
Time to move on so I decamped and headed to Cape Le Grand Beach to drive the 22km to Wylie Bay along a quartz sand beach. I hadn’t checked the tide and ended up with the water chasing me further up the beach towards the dunes as I continued on. La Bestia’s weakness is soft sand so I had to keep moving. In the end she did fine, I was a nervous wreck by the end.
A resupply in Esperance and then continued on to Stokes Inlet NP to Benwenerup campground
Drove 127km
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| Beach drive |
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| Near Wylie Bay |
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| Beach drive exit |
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| Made it! |
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| New campsite |
Day 19 - 18/3/2022
Created a loop hike to take in the marked ‘Heritage Trail’. Lots of cycads and banksias in here.
Hiked 6.2km including 71m ascent
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| The inlet |
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| The lookout |
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| Road back |
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| Pelicans |
Hiking deets
Day 20 - 19/3/2022
Pottered about the place as the weather was unfavourable. A friendly frog showed up at the outdoor camp kitchen.
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| Friendly frog |
Day 21 - 20/3/2022
Decamped and moved on to Starvation Bay campsite. More of a fisher person’s place. Not me.
Drove 80km
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| New campsite |
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| Wild sky |
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| Facilities |
Day 22 - 21/3/2022
Upped stumps and headed along the Southern Ocean Road toward Hopetoun then to Hamersley Inlet campground in Fitzgerald River NP. Took a small stroll out to the mouth of the inlet and back. Climbing dunes works out those calf muscles.
Drove 68km
Hiked 4.4km including 93m ascent
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| Looking west |
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| Heading into Fitzgerald River NP |
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| New campsite |
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| Camp shelter |
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| Hamersley Inlet |
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| Across the dunes |
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| Inlet mouth |
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| On the sandbar |
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| Along the inlet shoreline |
Hiking deets
Day 23 - 22/3/2022
Decamped and made my way to the East Mount Barren trail head closer to Hopetoun and took a hike up. A short but good one with sweeping views.
Drove to Ongerup and played a round of bush golf in the shadow of the Stirling Range NP. Interesting course where one hole crosses the road! I take an abbreviated rough track set with me on most of the trips just in case I come across an interesting course. Carried to the local caravan park with the wonderful Stirling Range on the horizon.
Drove 228km
Hiked 3km including 213m ascent
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| Good morning |
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| Royal Hakea |
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| An unusual Banksia |
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| Sweeping view from the top |
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| Ongerup golf course |
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| Stirling Ranges on the horizon |
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| Ongerup caravan park grounds |
Hiking deets
Day 24 - 23/3/2022
Travelled to Stirling Range NP where there was one of the ‘trail head’ climbs still outstanding from my ‘to do list’, Mt Magog. Yet another great walk through pristine bush ending with a steep climb up to the peak. So many different blooms.
Completing this one left me with only one of the high five peaks to complete the full set, Isongerup, which requires a traverse of the Stirling Range Ridge Walk.
High Five:
Bluff Knoll✅
Ellen Peak✅
Pyungoorup Peak✅
Toolbrunup Peak✅
Isongerup Peak❌
Other trail heads:
Mount Trio✅
Mount Hassell✅
Talyuberlup Peak✅
Mount Magog✅
Camped at Stirling Range Retreat. A top location.
Drove 100km
Hiked 6.6km including 552m ascent
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| On my way |
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| Heading in the right direction |
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| Mount Magog |
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| Up there |
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| Getting higher |
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| Up top |
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| Toolbrunup |
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| Talyuberlup |
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| Skink with peanut piece |
Hiking deets
Day 25 - 24/3/2022
Up early to partake in yet another climb of my best friend in the Stirling Ranges NP, Toolbrunup. It’s a real climb at the top rather than the pathway up Bluff Knoll. Certainly not for the faint hearted. Don’t look down. Tis my third ascent and each time the local wedge tailed eagle has greeted me at the summit.
Drove 35km
Hiked 5km including 635m ascent
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| Love this peak |
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| Relatively recent fire |
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| Scree field |
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| Boulder field |
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| Cloud up top |
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| Now it gets interesting. Yes, up that rock face! |
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| Don’t look down |
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| The markers are useful |
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| Tight steep section |
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| On the top |
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| From the top |
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| Looking west |
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| She’s back again |
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| Back along the scree field |
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| Back at the carpark |
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| Cheers |
Hiking deets
Day 26 - 25/3/2022
Day of rest and recuperation including a swim in the very nice pool at the retreat. Launched the drone for a few pics as well.
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| Western side of Chester Pass Rd |
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| Eastern side if Chester Pass Rd |
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| Bluff Knoll |
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| Stirling Ranges on the Retreat |
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| Nice pool |
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| Outlook from campsite |
Day 27 - 26/3/2022
Hightailed it home today.
Drove 385km
*************
Yet another great trip, mostly focused on hiking exploits in WA. Was reasonably fortunate with the weather as it can be pretty awful along the southern coast. The coastline of Cape Le Grand is exquisite.
I am now left with one peak to ascend in the Stirling Ranges to complete my set. She would have to wait for later as Purnululu and Italy beckoned in 2022.
Drove 2275km
Hiked 88.7km including 4669m ascent
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