Van Adventure 13 - The Big Loop 2025 Part 1 of 4

 Van Adventure 13 - The Big Loop 2025 Part 1 of 4

Gibb River Road

My first attempt to traverse the Gibb was July 2024 but that ended not long after it started and I ended up in Dalwallinu ED. Van adventure 12 was therefore a non event that led me on a health seek and rectify process. I only really got my act back together in November 2024.

After an ordinary year and the shock loss of a dear friend in February 2025 I needed to get away. To some extent the sudden death of my friend was the catalyst of ‘do it now, there may be no tomorrow’. This trip was my biggest and least well planned. I ended up having review points to consider how I was going at that time/location and whether I would ‘keep going’. 

The trip ballooned into a full loop of the mainland on most of the most remote bucket list roads in Oz. I had to cut it into four parts to allow for a new sector to be inserted at the review points and to avoid crashing my primary planning tool, Wikicamps.

Trip start odometer = 42332km

Day 1 - 16/6/2025

Let a new and bold adventure begin!

First stop Kalannie Caravan Park. A short journey north from home in Perth so that I can leave after the peak traffic and not arrive late. I avoid the Great Northern Highway for this sector which allows for a more leisurely pace, not having to stress about road trains so much. There are grain carrier doubles nonetheless.

The route takes you through the northern wheatbelt where grain storage facilities abound (see the pic). It was still a bit dry but green shoots were evident in planted fields. Kalannie is pretty much on the northern edge of the agricultural belt of south western Australia. From here it turns into pastoral land where colonial history ran cattle on huge tracts of non arable land.

Kalannie Caravan Park is a council run simple but functional facility with wonderfully hot showers, laundry and a gas bbq. There are half drums for open fires and plenty of wood available to fetch from the piles around the camp area. Thre is an 18 hole bush golf course adjacent to the park and is pretty good fun. The local IGA is well stocked and sells liquor if required.

Drove 270km

Day 2 - 17/6/2025

Leisurely drive to a bush camp at a granite outcrop outside Cue. I have to climb to the top to get reception. No one else here.

Leaving the agricultural region behind brings into harsh countryside where cattle stations have long since closed up shop. It must have been a pretty tough existence. There are still pockets of operations but most have given way to the ‘Big Hole in the Ground’ which much of WA backblocks encompasses. 

I am now on the Great Northern Highway which is pretty much the mining supply lifeline. Triple and quad road trains abound. They travel at 100kmh and are 5-10 minutes apart in both directions. You really need a UHF here to monitor Ch40 so that you know what’s what. I sit on 97kmh so that I don’t catch them (and have to pass a 50m long behemoth) and they only catch me slowly. I tell them that I will back off when they go ‘out and about’ sothat they can maiintain a steady pace. It’s easy for a light vehicle to regain speed.

On my way to Cue I pass through Paynes Find and Mount Magnet. All three are gold mining and other related mineral centres with mines all along the way. Camping anywhere near the highway will result in a continuous cacophony of road train rumble. I try to find locations tucked away as I am all good with ‘dig a hole’ bush camping. 

Garden Granite Rock east of Cue provides such a location. Cue has the most magnificent Police Station structure.

Drove 430km

Under the Southern Cross

Cue Police Station

Day 3 - 18/6/2025

Big one today into the Pilbara.

From Cue it is back onto the Great Northern Hwy where you travel through some pretty harsh countryside toward the Pilbara. Pastoral cattle stations do operate but mining and quarrying still dot the landscape. Not a lot of camping options either. I popped in to check out the upper reaches of the middle branch of the Gascoyne river(pic) but thought I preferred to drive further to a most wonderful free camp location adjacent to the Karijini NP.

So I have left The Murchison, crossed through The Gascoyne and am now in The Ashburton/Pilbara now, I have crossed the Tropic of Capricorn and refuellled at Capricorn roadhouse. Onward past the BHP mining township of Newman and arrive at Albert Tognolini Lookout campsite. There is no mistaking that I am in the Pilbara. Green tinge Spinifex atop soaring red-dark red mountainsides dotted with white trunk eucalypts. The temperature has gone up and the skies are as clear as exists in nature. Night skies are sensational.

It takes all of my willpower NOT to detour into Karijini (one of my favourite places in the world).

Drove 770km

Day 4 - 19/6/2025

Almost distraught to leave Karijini behind but onward I must, this time. The Kimberley awaits.

Now I am on the GNH proper. The stretch between Newman and Port Hedland is awash with ore carrying quad road trains (limited to 90kmh), mining equipment, mining vehicles, diesel tankers and grey nomads. You drop down from 600m above sea level to 40m and the landscape is flat and uninteresting. 

I arrive at the confluence of the two highways (pic), then Port Hedland… PH is an industrial nightmare. Noise dust heat and everyone in a hurry. Seemingly endless roadworks in every direction. Iron ore trains abound. BHP and FMG. Not sure whether Gina’s Roy Hill trains are operational yet.

The ‘one’ saving grace is for resupply (and relatively cheap fuel). A place where you have to be careful of your belongings and mindful of your surroundings. Best to camp with others here and lock up especially at night. Don’t leave chairs etc outside overnight. I am yet to fall foul here but plenty of others have.

I ended up staying at the golf course which provided rough and ready clean showers and toilets and a bar. Ironically it appears to be funded by Gina’s Roy Hill Mine.

Drove 260km

Day 5 - 20/6/2025

Onward up the GNH (Great Northern Hwy) across the wonderful De Grey River then things turn pretty bleak. Filled up at Pardoo roadhouse which was all but destroyed by cyclone recently. Not many customers there as it is not that far out of Port Hedland where most would fill up due to prices. I did so to avoid the crowds at Sandfly Roadhouse. It was very busy when I pulled over there into the shade (the only shade along the way) to have a self contained lunch.

This is the longest La Bestia has been off the dirt in a long while. I imagine since my last crossing of the Nullarbor. Speaking of which, I reckon the landscape here is less intesting than the Nullarbor. Mostly tourist traffic now as I have long left the mining world behind at the Marble Bar turn off. A few cattle transport road trains were out and about.

As I venture further north, I am now in Kimberley country as the vegetation is beginning to thicken up and turn green. To my surprise as I am swanning along I spot an EV charging station in the middle of nowhere at Bidyadanga turn off!

Now camped 150km south of Broome at Goldwire 24hr roadside stop awaiting my booking period at Djarindjin Campground (Lombadina) on the Dampier Peninsula. One extra night hence the lay day. I have been to Lombadina previously but by a very different mode of transport. Helicopter out to the offshore construction vessels…

Drove 455km

Day 6 - 21/6/2025

Hung around camp to find flowers and birds.

Day 7 - 22/6/2025

Departed Goldwire roadside stop (highly recommended) to take a quick trip into Broome for a small resupply. Lordy that place is busy. Reminds me of Margaret River. Get in, get out, too many people for my liking. 

Anyway onward to Cape Leveque which was an amazing avenue of flowering wattles. Never seen such a continuous ‘stream’. You rise up to 240m above sea level then drop down again to some flood plain where Pandanas are trying to establish a foothold. They don’t last for long as the acacias take over again.

Drove out to One Arm but there was an entry fee of $22! Nup. This is the challenge of areas being run by locals who may not actually want tourists around. Sad really, locations are being shut out.

Took a detour down to Cygnet Bay for a squiz. Got some 4WD dirt practice in as a result.

Settling in for the next few days awaiting another booking to ‘open up’.

Drove 370km

Lombadina Airfield

Day 8 - 23/6/2025

Well today had a surprise. After a drab day of laundry I heard a focused bird call which is unmistakable. There’s a whistling kite nest in the camp with younguns screaming for a feed. 

A wattle was flowering profusely and so the wattle birds were punch drunk on nectar. A eucalyptus bloom was a striking orange. I have only seen this one before in Wyndham.

Day 9 - 24/6/2025

Quiet day for the most part. Awaiting booking to open a bit further south on the west coast of the peninsular. Met some fellow travellers from Victoria, Sue & Patrick, who were seemingly entertained by my erstwhile offshore engineering shenanigans. 

Sue was kind enough to drive me 5km away from the airstrip so I could fly the drone out to the coast. Pics hereunder.

Day 10 - 25/6/2025

Short drive south to Gnylmarung beachside bush camp with 40km of narrow sandy bush track. Three nights here. Hoping to find a Gouldian Finch.

Drove 75km

Day 11 - 26/6/2025

Dodgy comms today but spent it searching for bird and sea-life pic opportunities.

Day 12 - 27/6/2025

Rockwallaby was out and about today. Along the coast and back via bush tracks. Still no Gouldian finches sadly.

Hiked 6.2km including 60m ascent

Hike deets

Day 13 - 28/6/2025

Back on the road today. Met some great people at Gnylmarung camp site. A bit sad leaving but the Gibb beckons.

A relatively easy 330km dropping in to Beagle Bay Community and Broome to top up supplies. TOO many people! Have just lobbed into a free camp on the lower Fitzroy River. Ten or so camps with a few tinnies out in the water drowning bait.

Gotta be crocwise here😎

Drove 330km

N

Day 14 - 29/6/2025

The Rock Wallaby was out and about again today. A stroll down the river to two points of interest. First one was an old bus frame and car bodies. Second was a delapidated hut.

Hiked 9.9km including 68m ascent

Hike deets

Day 15 - 30/6/2025

Headed off toward Derby for a small resupply and refuel. Heading directly to the Gibb River Road. May or may not have comms along the way. No idea how long I’ll be out there.

This is the true beginning of this sector, more than 2400km from home. Aiming to camp at Lennard River Bridge tonight which is at the Windjana Gorge turn off and is sealed all the way (~100km from GRR start).

Drove 213km

Willare RH

Gibb River Road western end

Lennard River bridge campground 

Day 16 - 1/7/2025

It was quite busy at Lennard River last night. Onto the rough stuff soon after ‘Queen Victoria’s Head’. Unfortunately the road into Lennard River Gorge was closed so I kept going.

A steady 113km on a mixture of corrugated roads, reasonable dirt, steep pinches, creek crossings and a bit of tarmac got me to Bell Gorge Dalmanyi turn off. There was a deepish crossing with a muddy exit just before the Silent Grove Campground but no drama really.

Drove 125km

Queen Victoria’s head outcrop

First water crossing of many

Silent Grove campground

Day 17 - 2/7/2025

Off to explore Dalmanyi today. Weather is perfect and the trusty mountain bike is the transport mode. Two deep creek crossings to cross and a lot of dust from vehicles (I was wearing an N95 face mask). Lock the bike up and transit to hike/swim mode for the gorge. Such a beautiful location apart from the number of peeps. Did not disappoint including a bit of GoPro footage.

Rode 20.8km including 270m ascent

Hiked 2.4km including 113m ascent

Creek crossing on the mtb

Healthy olive python

Lower pool

Top of the falls

Trail down to the lower pool

Trail back to the carpark 

Day 18 - 3/7/2025

Spent the day wandering camp and socialising a bit. Ended up having a nice warm shower (solar).

Day 19 - 4/7/2025

Departed Silent Grove campground, got just outside the gate and launched the drone. Missed a trick here. There was a gorge emanating from the back of the camp. May have been a good ‘rock wallaby special trail’. Never mind, another time perhaps.

The creek crossing just outside the camp was getting quite mushy on one side. Ground out while driving down toward the water. I reckon people will start getting stuck going the other way.

Leaving at 0700 seemed to get me in front of the pack so I had little dust to contend with thankfully. Made my way toward Adcock gorge turn off.

Popped into Adcock gorge access track and La Bestia got a proper 4wd work out. Wash aways, drop offs, rocks and such. Took pity on her and didn’t quite go all the way. I ground down onto a large embedded rock and called it quits. Long way from help out here. 

Legged it into the gorge, such a pretty little spot. Too early (cold) for a dip. Back on the road toward Mt Barnett Road House. There was quite a length of sealed section along here. How long before the rest is done? 660km of dirt is now more like 400km, maybe less. Another little gorge was near the road called Galvans. Short walk in but busier due to proximity of the road.

Made it to the road house, fuelled up and booked into Manning campground which is a further 5km in and zero comms. Update will have to be when I get back out to the road house. Very busy camp with dodgy showers but operating toilets. No problem really. Lots of tour bus groups and the only ‘halfway along the Gibb’ base for other doings. 

Everyone had been raving about Manning Gorge…domani…

Drove 190km

Hiked 2.7km including 55m ascent 

Wine bottle boab

Swimming hole at Manning campground 

My campsite at Manning

Day20 - 5/7/2025

There is an initial creek crossing to negotiate by swimming while toting your gear in blue plastic half barrels. Sometimes you have to swim across to get a free barrel then bring it back. Rejig yourself on the other side and off you go on a 2.5km hike along a class 4 trail. Your wet clothes dry off even early in the day.

As you get closer, the sound of the falls grows louder until you start a steep climb down to the river just below the falls. Magnificent! Did the swim thing with the GoPro up to and under the falls, then jumped off the rocks. The waterfall cascade tended to pull me under so had to actively swim up after the jump. 

Lots of peeps but seriously good swimming experience. Better than Dalmanyi imo, although not as geologically spectacular. Saw people climbing the waterfall to get to the top. Way too iffy for me. I sat there to figure out a dry way up. Added a rock step in one location and voila! This will be used tomorrow.

Hiked 6.3km including 211m ascent

Looking back to the campground 

The falls

Looking downstream 

Cheeky water monitor

From the top of the falls

Hike deets

Day 21 - 6/7/2025

Staying an extra day coz the hiking opportunities abound. Today I hiked into and beyond the waterfall by ~3km. So so quiet, no people and challenging to find your own way. Made it my mission to find a route across the river without removing shoes so it took a while. Success in the end though. Such clear water and solitude at last. 

In an ideal world I would stay longer and find more hike routes but 3 nights among a throng of people is ample sufficiency for this person. New horizons await after reconnecting and updating at the road house on the way out. Highly recommend the camp for the location.

Hiked 10.9km including 306m ascent

My route up

Idyllic 

This is MY rock

Hike deets

Day 22 - 7/7/2025

Packed up camp and drove out to the roadhouse to unload rubbish, pay for my extra night ($15 seniors) and sit for a bit updating my blog. I’m still doing my thing. Comms will be ‘if I can connect’ for a while. Two larger river crossings to negotiate on my short trip today. One gorge as well. 

Probably be another 4 days until recontact when I reach Drysdale Station. I keep my adult children informed on my whereabouts and intentions via my satellite phone.

Day 22 …continued

Short 56km jump to the east side of the Hahn River. Top free camp. Clear flowing calf deep river water. Access to the gorge along the way was closed unfortunately. Lots of traffic with a couple of nongs travelling way too fast chucking rocks at others and filling the air with dust. Plenty of derisive comments on the uhf. Spotted what I thought was a magpie here. Quite unusual to hear such sounds in these parts. Surprisingly different black and white shading took me to the book and it was a pied butcher bird.

Drove 60km

Day 23 - 8/7/2025

Rest day today. Spent the morning collecting firewood to build a modest blaze tonight for warmth then sat in the chair in water doing sudoku keeping cool. The temperature drops quickly once the sun goes down. 10° overnight with quite heavy dew and vapour rising from the river in the morning. Next camp will be at Gibb River Crossing tomorrow just past the Kalumburu turn off on the way to Drysdale River Station. In effect this is a detour from the Gibb River Road toward the Mitchell Plateau. Sounds like the road into Mitchell falls will be too hard on La Bestia so I am hoping to get to Munurru campground on the King Edward River at least.

Day 24 - 9/7/2025

I’m very surprised at how many still run generators. Noisy bloody things. Talk about ruining the serenity. Don’t they know how good that big yellow generator in the sky is? I can use my microwave, induction hot plate or pizza oven (while running the main fridge 24/7 + bar fridge during the day) and the batteries are full at 1300 using a 200W + 2x 100W panels.

Departed for the Kalumburu/Gibb River Road turn off approx. 50km away. THIS section was the worst corrugations thus far. On par with the Tanami imo. The river and creek crossings were tame in comparison. Forever chasing the smooth shoulder or the other side of the road. Yeesh. Found a spot on the west side of the Gibb River. Good enough.

Not as tranquil as the Hahn River. A lot more campers on all sides of the road and river. It’s amazing how bullishly entitled some people are to get a spot beside the river, even if it means blocking others in. Must be an eastern states thing but mostly those with wankpanzers.I will be glad when the school holidays are over in a week or so.

Drove 56km

Camped beside Gibb River

Gibb River

Gibb River crossing 

Day 25 - 10/7/2025

Last night clearly demonstrated that ‘remote travel’ doesn’t exist any longer. Every second camp has a starlink connection and I had to put up with cheering etc across camp. There must have been a state of origin rugby match. Others were all head down on social media. The campfire chat is dead. Elon Musk ruins another aspect of social life…

I went for a wander in the night in an attempt to find other disconnected folk with no luck at all. I did come across a cane toad shuffling through the undergrowth. It is no more ☠️. They are taking over up here as well. Thank you Queensland🤬

Flew the drone to find that the terrain is flat and featureless unlike from Windjana to Mt Barnett. Not much other than the creek & river crossings. Good range of bird life was a plus.

Heading to Drysdale River Station tomorrow. Hopefully get a decent connection to upload some gumpf for you to peruse.

Day 26 - 11/7/2025

Lastnight was quite good. A lot of the camps had left. I departed early to beat the rush northward from Gibb River xing. Glad I did. Roughest road I have taken La Bestia along. Didn’t want to rush and break something out here. Averaged 45kmh for 50km or so. Similar flat landscape but rising slowly higher. 

Arrived at fuel bowser peak hour and joined the queue. Only needed a top up but there is a wise adage in remote Australia: ‘never pass an opportunity to fill up, you don’t know whether the next one is inoperable, empty or closed.’ That indeed happened to me at Marble Bar 2 years ago. Had to wait for the pump tech to arrive in two days…

Seems like a great place to recharge and have a hot shower. There’s also a bar for later on. I’m hoping to get some info about the road going further north from fellow travellers.

Drove 57km

Day 27 - 12/7/2025

Information gathering and contemplation today. ‘Can I really get to Mitchell Falls Camp in La Bestia?’ Many differing descriptions of road conditions and one particular water crossing, King Edward River. Reports of 70+cm with deeper dips. Concerning…

Anyway I went to the bar again and sat around the campfire chat until well after dark then ended up at a family fireside conversation. Wonderful folk. Didn’t sleep that well due to anxiety regarding the ‘significant’ river crossing of the Gibb/Mitchell.

Found a bower hidden in the bush near the ablution block. The birds were quite feisty about the ‘leftovers’ from departed campers.

Day 28 - 13/7/2025

Time is flying by. In spite of the people numbers I am enjoying certain sites for differing reasons. It’s so good when I can’t hear a generator, music, or tv/streaming.

Departed Drysdale Station to be confronted with 100km of mostly shocking corrugations. Jeebuz it was never ending. Felt like turning back to protect my wonderful home on wheels. My determination to get to Mitchell Falls shone through and onward we marched albeit rather circumspectly.

We got to the Port Warrender turn off and my trepidation rose sharply. The big river crossing was soon to be negotiated. I had intended to walk it but I could see the rocky bottom so I decided to just ‘send it’. Well, La Bestia never missed a beat in low range. She hauled arse as though nothing was really an issue. The general depth was 60cm but there was a drop to 80cm with a very rocky base. Piece of pi**. What a wonderfully competent machine she is. Zero water ingress. This was such a relief. 

Onward to the Munurru campground nearby which has a frontage to the river I just crossed, a swimming hole and a rather picturesque fast running waterfall. 70cm of water flow will do that… I am truly geographically remote now. 

Another standard two day stay here. Pulled the mtb out and rode to the nearby Aboriginal rock art site which includes the famed (Bradshaw) paintings. Will have a swim and maybe even break out the pump up paddle board tomorrow. I can hear the rumble of the waterfall from my camp. Wonderful.

Drove 110km

Rode 3km

Drysdale River crossing 

Road to Mitchell Falls

King Edward River crossing 

Swimming hole 

Amazingly water polished rock

The falls near camp

Downstream of the falls

Splodge ant hill

My campsite at Munurru

Day 29 - 14/7/2025

Went for an early morning walk along the river hoping to come across a brolga but no dice. Bumped into a fellow female solo traveller who had just returned from up top. I decided to leg it today and see if I could get a fly/walk trip out on a chopper. 

The road? Effing horrendous. Unmaintained corrugations interspersed with rock outcrops all under shade which made spotting hazards rather difficult. Poor La Bestia was getting a beating and it was my fault. Having said that, this is why I bought her, to be able to get to the more difficult locations.

My dash mounted action camera chucked a tizzy because of the shaking. Sadly there are sections that I cannot show video of as a result. My dash cam also cried ‘enough’! We got to the camp eventually. 2.5hrs for 75km. There were quite steep sections and tropical flat areas as well. It’s more humid around here.

Pretty basic camp with the heliport right alongside. Those kerosene budgies get going at 0800. An amazing technology without which my erstwhile career would have been rather different. Booked my flight out for around 0900.

Decided to walk down to little Merten falls swimming hole 1.5km from camp. An amazing location and cooling experience. The GoPro was used here.

Drove 80km

Hiked 3.4km including 50m ascent

Hike deets

Day 30 - 15/7/2025

Earlyish start getting my hiking gear ready while keeping the weight down. Had spent the evening and night sucking water in to max out my hydration. Wandered down to check my booking and was told of a spare seat one which was taking off “now”. Yep! Fastest safety briefing ever and we were off. 

Got to sit up front. Very very cool. Oh the landscape…sensational. To see it from the air is a must (no drones allowed). Here I was thinking that this needs to be good given the degree of difficulty getting here. I need not have concerned myself one little bit. Chopper set down 300m from the classic ‘four falls in a row’ viewing point on the edge of an unfenced rocky cliff. Rock wallaby was in her element. Water was flowing strongly thanks to the late rain. ‘Awesome’ is not strong enough. This sound and sight is to be emblazoned into my mind forever more.

Two swimming points on the way back were welcome in the pretty oppressive heat. Not a long or difficult walk back to camp of 4.5km although I tended to add distance by side barring to interesting off piste spots. One in particular was big mertens falls. This is a single drop but smaller flow into a narrow ravine. Quite spectacular. Standing at the edge gets the heart rate up a bit.

One special image was of a Mertens Water Monitor at the top of Little Mertens Falls in Mertens Creek.

Hiked 6.0 km including 144m ascent

Hike deets

Day 31 - 16/7/2025

Time to head back along the goat track. 75km to  Munurru camp further down or 190km to Drysdale River Station. Let’s see how I feel after 75km. Popped in to the other Aboriginal Wandjina rock art site to be greeted by some wonderful Gwion Gwion (Bradshaws) artwork. Sort of spooky…

I was feeling quite relaxed compared to the inward trip so decided to forge ahead to Drysdale River Station for a nice cold beer (I had run out of supplies). Got back through the King Edward River crossing easily (60-70cm deep) and out to the ‘main’ Kalumburu road. Jeebuz these ‘roads’ are shockingly rough. Stopped at the Drysdale River crossing which has a concrete base so I had a crack at using the follow me function of my drone. Worked a treat although my framing has room for improvement.

Filled up La Bestia which will get me to Kununurra. Pretty decent fuel consumption given the terrain dragging 3.7t in four wheel drive with steep pinches and water crossings taken in low range (15L/100km).

Lovely night last night with a couple of fireside chats.

Drove 190km

Day 32 - 17/7/2025

Bumped into fellow travellers Deb & David who I met at Silent Grove on Day 18. They are heading toward Duncan Road as am I so we will probably cross paths again. 

Quiet day today so I will pull out the mtb and ride to the nearby Miners Pool swimming hole. Update: Well the track to miners pool was far too sandy for my narrow tyre mtb so I rode to the river crossing and took a dip there. I also rode the mtb through the crossing with my gopro in my hand. Hard work across the strong water flow.

A few beers at the bar and bade the barmaid adieu. 240km to get to the iconic Pentecost River crossing. From there, the road is sealed all the way to the ‘end’.

Farewell Drysdale Station, you provided for me well. Good showers, fuel, traveller information and cold beer.

A Hilux was not so fortunate. On a flatbed to who knows where at how much cost… sad to see so far from anywhere.

Rode 8.3km including 22m ascent 

Day 33 - 18/7/2025

A latish start for me, 0800. Next stop the Pentecost River, some 250km of brutish gravel/dirt roads. The landscape also became more interesting. I kept catching tail waggers even though I was tootling at 60kmh. Lots of rocky sections and a few deep bulldust holes to contend with. Most of the floodway crossings were dry or just a trickle. There were a few sealed sections where the road was steep and winding through the ranges but mostly I was sick of La Bestia being pounded by now.

A lot busier than the Kalumburu road and a bit of carnage along the way. Blown tyres for three vehicles and a caravan suspension failure. 

Finally the Cockburn ranges come into view. The Pentecost River is beckoning. Pull over as it is one vehicle at a time, get my drone ready, launch it and set it on ‘follow me’ mode. Off I drove over a very rocky base with the drone tracking along with me. Some decent footage.

Made my way into the free camp area along the north eastern bank and squeezed into a spot. Surprisingly there were two other 4WD Sprinters in there. There were none on the Kalumburu section, let alone Mitchell Falls. 

Also making a somewhat unwelcome return were the flies. There have been virtually none all the way from Derby. Mosquitoes, on the other hand, have been plentiful and voracious. It’s a bit more humid as well being close to sea level.

La Bestia has been marvelous. 60km remain of a 1140km Gibb River / Mitchell Falls trek. I am at the eastern end of the dirt road at last. I’ve forgotten what tarmac roads are like. The Toyo A/T tyres have done the business and I will be able to pump them back up upon departure. 

I have been in 4WD for 1000+km driving on soft squidgy tyres to take some load off the suspension. Low range has been engaged a number of times for steep pinches, serious water crossings and tricky camping spot seeking. Overall average fuel consumption has been less than 14L/100km. The V6 is so smooth and quiet especially compared to the ‘wankpanzers’ and V8 landcruisers/patrols.

Drove 270km

Day 34 - 19/7/2025

Rest and reflection day today. Had a long chat with another 4WD Sprinter owner as I noticed he had a pair of rear mounted racks fitted. Finally I have found some that are made in Australia. I will be seeking further information as I am keen to move one spare out of the boot as well as two jerry cans of fuel.

Lots of dust inside on this leg due to the traffic and the difficulty in getting past slower vehicles. Hasn’t been much until now. Oh well, I expected worse. It’s hot a still today, quite oppressive. Shame there is no swimming to be had, 🐊 warnings but no sightings recently.

A view of the precipitous Cockburn range rises just behind the camp. Quite spectacular. Lots of fisherpersons on the riverfront. Didn’t see any ‘catches’. Camps have thinned out and not many crossing. This is a popular location for Kununurra locals to spend the weekend.

Noticed a bit of carnage in the lhs wheel space. A couple of pop retainers had pulled through so the mud liner was trying to escape. All fixed now. Must have clouted a water crossing rock at some point. Most likely King Edward River.

Also a strange feeling that this phase is almost at an end. Who would’ve thought that I will miss such challenging ‘roads’?

Pentecost River downstream

Looking back over the crossing

Majestic 

Solitary boab

Rainbow Bee-eater

Xing from above

Cockburn Range

Day 35 - 20/7/2025

Popped in to Amalia Gorge and Emma Gorge within the El Questro confines for a day trip. Not my sort of place to stay. The gorges were great, especially Emma Gorge. The Amalia Gorge trail had quite a pinch point with a grapple chain to get through. Well worth the effort. Rock wallaby was in her element.

I met some fellow non-crowd travellers Alex & Bryn. Like minded but young folk. 

I’m going to try a free camp outside of Kununurra on the lower Ord. I need to be very crocwise there! Will book into a caravan park to clean things up and do some laundry before the next phase of my trip.

I ended up doing a flash Coles resupply as I had next to nothing left. I had carried a bottle of French bubbles all the way to celebrate completion. That’s what I am doing tonight, along with spicy vego pizza, of course.

Drove 170km

Hiked 7.5km including 114m ascent

Amalia Gorge

Chain grapple

Emma Gorge

Emma Gorge swimming

Eastern end of Gibb River Road

Lower Ord at Buttons landing

Cheers

Day 36 - 21/7/2025

Drove into Kununurra via the Ivanhoe Crossing. After King Edward it was a doddle. 

Wash vehicle, further resupply, dump point, book caravan park, and get serious about the next phase of the trip. Plugged into 240v, turned the a/c on and clouds of red dust splurted out the back. Great hot shower as well. Then came the laundry. Red mud…

One of the challenges of rv travel is that when you stop there can be constraints on where you can travel to. Out with the trusty mtb and ride to the bottle shop. I have a fold out rack that carries a carton easily. 

Drove 20km

Clean again

Kelly’s Knob Kununurra 

Caravan Park with pool

The Kimberley bit

Day 37 - 22/7/2025

Nothing much to add. All the laundry is done and I made another beer run. There is a single carton/3 wine bottle limit per day in these parts. Makes it a bit difficult to stock up for a long trip. 3 bottles tomorrow…

A friendly critter came to say hello, however.

Now busily getting my act together for the next phase of the trip. Still deciding left/right/up/down. At least I have my NT Parks pass sorted.

Day 38 - 23/7/2025

Took a hike up Thegoowiyeng (Kelly’s Knob). Great view across Kununurra from there. Went a bit feral on the way down with a bit of bushbashing.

Hiked 5.1km including 146m ascent

Quite steep

Mirima NP

Going bushbashing

Pool was welcome

****************

Drove 4523km

Rode 32.1km

Hiked 60.4km

I was feeling good and decided to venture onward to Hall’s Creek and around the east side of Lake Argyle via Duncan Road and onward into NT. The next self assessment point would be Katherine NT.