Van Adventure 13 - The Big Loop 2025 Part 3 of 4

 Trip 13 The Big Loop 2025 Part 3 of 4

Gulf Country / Cape York

Phase 3 of the overall trip (GRR/DRNT/GCQ+)

Commencing Friday 15 August 2025

Day 1 GCCY - 15/8/25 (=Day 61 of the overall trip)

400km to Borroloola along an initially superb roadway. Uninteresting landscape as well. Then it all changed when I reached the roadworks. Dirt side tracks and then the magic old 1.5 width tarmac with 5cm edge drops. Horrible for tyre sidewalls. Another 100km to Heartbreak Hotel RH at Cape Crawford. A few about but gave me an uneasy feeling to stay there so I pushed on toward Borroloola. 

The road changed again to full width with a more rugged landscape and I could see weird colours and shapes in amongst the distant bush. Oh hello, here’s the reason for the road…McArthur River Mine. The weird shapes were the huge hill sized overburden windrows from the open pit zinc & lead mining operation.

Made my way a little further to an understated natural phenomenon, Caranbrini Lost City sandstone structures. A cross between the domes and echidna gorge  at Purnululu. Great little 2km walk amongst the structures. Then it all drone shots were a great perspective as well.

Finally reached Borroloola to fill up and book into the caravan park. Seems ok with shaded sites, a small pool and decent ablutions. Tow nights here and wouldn’t you know it, I have arrived on show and gymkhana weekend. May be a little rowdy later methinks. 

Drove 385km

Hiked 2km including 40m ascent

Heartbreak Hotel RH

Campsite at Borroloola

Borroloola CP

First sector of phase 3

Day 2 - 16/8/25

More cleaning and adjustment today. Pulled out the cabin air filter and it was very dusty. Gave it a good blow out but really needs replacing. Unfortunately my side door fly screen zipper has given up the ghost. Time for a new magnetic version but will have to make do with mosquito coils as necessary to have the door open. 

Continuing to research the possibility of turning north when I get further along the gulf and into Queensland. Back onto dirt roads tomorrow along National Hwy 1 (lol). The trip between Broome and Cairns is known as the Savannah Way. I’m effectively doing pretty much the entire stretch with detours along the way.

Day 3 - 17/8/25

Headed off toward the Queensland border hoping to find a decent remote camp site but no luck so continued on to Hells Gate roadhouse. A few river crossings but not that deep. The entry to the Calvert river crossing was fraught with two huge holes so was a bit tricky. The road was pretty much the same condition as Gibb River. So much so that the dash mounted action camera spat the dummy again. Saw a few Wedge tailed eagles on this stretch. Also lots of roos.

Got to the roadhouse and realised the overhead cupboard holding the microwave had parted company with the support frame. Some running repairs were made. I will need to reinforce it somehow given the roads I travel. Having said that it has survived this far including Tanami, GCR, Mereenie loop, Wolf Creek, Goldfields back country, Pilbara back country, Chichester range, Mt Augustus, Purnululu, GRR & Mitchell Falls, Duncan Rd, & Buchanan Hwy.

Quite a few around the roadhouse and a very amenable facility. It had a bar and met some fellow travellers. They also supplied me with longer screw to do my repairs.👏

Drove 320km

Day 4 - 18/8/25

Sat out the front of the RH getting my act together after struggling with the overhead cupboard repairs. The station owner turns up in a twin engine cesna and parks it over the other side of the road. Handy! I drove back out the road to take so e pics of a cultural site named the ‘Dill Dolls’.

Ventured east intending to stay at Burketown with a pit stop at Doomadgee RH.  Had a chat to a local at Doomadgee, nice fella. Funniest thing happened along a straight with no vehicles for miles. The cops pull me over for a breath test! Picking on the tourists for their quota no doubt.

There’s a hot spring in Burketown. Really hot! The roos gathered around for some reason. The caravan park was small and uninspiring so I kept going to a popular free camp on Leichhardt River. Plenty of options to get away from others. I just know there will be loud music later. The track in had deep sand sections and of concern but La Bestia took it in her stride as always.

Finally got pics of a pair of Brolgas + youngun. Yay! Saw more wedgies as well but no opportunities for pics sadly. The gulf country is pretty much dead flat as far as you can see. Lots of roadworks to repair damage from the recent flooding.

Drove 250km

Dill Dolls

Doomadgee Reservoir

Burketown hot spring

Leichhardt River

My spot

From the air

Day 5 - 19/8/25

Set off for Normanton reasonably early as I doubted that the caravan park there would be of interest so I could go further on if necessary.

Finally snapped a couple of wedgies, one just beside me as it wanted me to bugger off. After not seeing many Brolgas there was a flock of them pinching the cattle water. Strange sounding bird. Back to decent tarmac now. Quite novel.

Popped in to Burke and Wills Memorial camp 119. A rare event for me however the expedition was poorly planned, prepped and supported and the story makes for sound reading if travelling today in remote areas.

Normanton had a big croc and a big barra… so I continued on to Croydon which is a gold mining town on the old Gulflander train line. 

I’m getting close to completing the Savannah Way from Broome to Cairns.

Drove 315km

Burke and Wills memorial camp 119

Normanton

Normanton

Croydon caravan park

Croydon pub

Day 6 - 20/8/25

Not much to report. Met a chap from Hobart riding a treadly from Darwin to Cairns via Hells Gate. Major kudos!

The landscape become rather interesting as I climbed higher from the plain. Toddled along and found it difficult to stop at photo points. The roads here are not tourism focused at all. Also plenty of 1.5 lane wide tarmac where you have to get off if a heavy transport vehicle cones along. To some extent ’just leave it dirt until you go full width’ would be preferable.

Stopped for lunch at Mount Surprise. Cute little pub. Continued on to Ravenshoe which is the highest town in Qld at 930m asl. Camped at the old train station. Nice spot.

Drove 410km

Mount Surprise

Ravenshoe campground 

Day 7 - 21/8/25

Remaining at Ravenshoe to do some more cupboard strengthening as there is a decent Home Hardware store here. Completed that work and took a stroll to the big millstream falls. Great local natural feature but everyone does cars up here. None of the bridges have walkways so I had to find a back way where I could cross the bridge without being run over.

Anyway it was worth the effort. The small falls is closer to town so I will walk there tomorrow. If only they had a walking loop joining them together and keeping off the main highway.

It sort of rained as well. Typical high country mist. Quite a nice little town.

Hiked 13.1km including 222m ascent

Day 8 - 22/8/25

Set off early to walk to the Little Millstream Falls, a round trip of 7.5km, some on a made path along roads to get to the carpark turn off. A gorgeous setting came into view where there is a rope to assist lowering/raising yourself for the muddy and steep final drop to the swimming hole bank. Too cold for a dip but well worth the visit.

Packed up and set off for Atherton via Hypipamee National Park. There is a volcanic pipe crater there and the Dinner Cascade Falls. Also a possibility of seeing a Cassowary, but no, just a brush turkey. Drove an extremely winding road past a wind farm and into lush rainforest. The road elevation rose above 1100m.

Very striking landscape around Atherton and very busy main street. Dropped into Bunnings for a couple of things and walked up the street and found a kebab place. My first falafel for over two months. Also lucked out at the local Bursons Auto Parts and procured a replacement cabin air filter (Repco next door failed).

Ended up at Tolga caravan park 4km north of Atherton. I was a bit tired. There are pademelons roaming the grounds here as it’s adjacent to a small patch of rainforest. Lots of screeching fruit bats as well.

Drove 60km

Hiked 8.9km including 208m ascent

The crater

Tolga CP

Day 9 - 23/8/25

A bit of a catch up day with laundry and vehicle maintenance. Glad I decided to adjust the hand brake throw as when I got under I spied a pipe hanging down. The diff breather had dislodged and landed on the exhaust essentially cutting it in two. Not good for water crossings! Anyway the guys at the caravan park helped out with a replacement piece of hose they had laying around. Thanks heaps.

Spied a different finch today. Red-browed Finch. Lots of them feeding on the ground and when a threat is detected they all fly and hide in the nearest bushy plant. Quite a sound with all the wings aflutter in unison.

Heading north tomorrow.

Day 10 - 24/8/25

Had to wait for the local Supercheap to open to get some parts for the diff breather. Turned off the Savannah Way and henceforth drove some of the prettiest landscape in Australia imo. All the way to the Cooktown turn off at Lakeland and beyond. I will be looking closely on the way back from the top therefore not much to show you as I am gunning it north. Ended up lodged at Musgrave Roadhouse with no telco and a modicum of wifi at the bar.

This is my type of place when compared to the caravan park at Tolga. Just turn up and park where you please at $15 a night. Such a contrast. The dirt roads are back and let’s see how corrugated they are compared to where I have been already. Love this country. BTW I am in Bob Katter country! Who knows what might pop up along the way.

Drove 400km

Not the best place to ‘park’

Musgrave RH

Day 11 - 25/8/25

Big day today. 500km half or more dirt. Some pretty awful. Some light rain but not enough to lay the never ending dust. Ended up at the camp beside Jardine River crossing. Going across tomorrow on the ferry to reach Pajinka (top tip). There’s a road crew here so it may not be all that peaceful tonight.

Some country that reminds me of the granite woodlands near Norseman. Quite toasty and muggy. LOTS of traffic. The dust hangs in the air so you end up blinded for a bit. The caravans throw up heaps more than single vehicles. Averaged around 60kmh.

No wonder the locals don’t want a bridge built, the fees are a massive cash cow. Especially with the amount of traffic.

Archer River RH

Bramwell Junction RH

Jardine ferry campground 

Jardine River

Got my ferry sticker

The ferry crossing 

Day 12 - 26/8/25 (big one)

Up early to front the ferry queue for 0700. Curiously the sign says 0800 but the word I heard was 0700 which was correct. First across and able to head north without following in the dust. The road had a detour which was sandy corrugations. Just when you think it can’t get worse…

The tracks go in weird directions but I eventually got to Bamaga and turned onto Pajinka Rd to head to the top. Rough road until you get to the ‘Croc Tent’ souvenir place, then it all changes. The last 15km to the Pajinka car park is the best part of this diversion north by far. The road narrows into a single lane smooth clay base through the jungle complete with thick hanging vines and one gnarly creek crossing. This is where I had to be mindful of the height of La Bestia. 

Nobody coming the opposite direction all the way thankfully. There are a few turn out opportunities but not many. Made it through the creek and arrived a little later at a small car park. One other vehicle. It would be packed later no doubt.

Grabbed my drone pack and off I wandered toward the top climbing a rocky ridge along the way. The wind was howling so the drone was excess baggage sadly. Got to the sign and was there on my own which was a relief. I had been told it can be a ‘Mount Everest’ style wait your turn photo opportunity. This gave me time to get a clean video sweep and reflect on my good fortune to be able to do this trip.

It wasn’t that pleasant in the wind so I headed back the 700m. Curiously there is an abandoned resort just near the car park. Must be a story there somewhere. 

I headed off and just after crossing the creek the hordes descended. One after the other. The sprinter presents a big facade to the other 4WD vehicles so most yielded instantly. I didn’t have to reverse into a jungle gap but others did. That car park and trail was about to get overloaded.

Filled up at the Bamaga BP which wasn’t too expensive and made my way out to an aircraft crash site (1945) where the bits of the DC3 were still there. One of the wing pieces had a large tree indentation and was away from the fuselage so it wasn’t difficult to determine which direction she came down. Quite a sobering experience. A seemingly wild horse was nearby. I had seen quite a few up here. 

Got back to the ferry and got straight on. The wind was playing havoc with the directional stability and it turned out that they shut it down immediately afterward. Quite fortunate for me! Stopped for a breather and launch the drone and by the time I left the queue had grown considerably.

All this meant was that hardly anyone would be travelling in my direction so I could take it a bit slower without being clouded out by faster travellers passing me. If the last 15km is the best then the remaining 200km or so back to Bramwell Junction Roadhouse is the worst. Poor La Bestia was being pounded by relentless corrugations. I had to put a temporary strut under the overhead cupboards to keep them from becoming detached. I will have to redesign/rebuild this to support the weight of the microwave for the future.

Bramwell Junction was a welcome sight with cold drinks and near new toilet/shower facilities. The ensuite style showers were fantastic. I was very tired and slept well.

Drove 310km

Hiked 1.5km including 99m ascent

Ferry ramp

From the ferry

Welcome drink at Bramwell Junction RH

Day 13 - 27/8/25

Filled up at Bramwell and headed south not really knowing how far I would get. I wanted to stay at different places and the bush camping opportunities were  mostly either too close to the road (covered in dust and noisy) or over-subscribed.

Stopped at Wenlock River and Archer River for some pics. The flood indicators go to 6m around here. The culverts are often four 1.8m pipes. Plenty of abandoned vehicles, some in river beds.

By the time I got to Musgrave I had had a serious gut-full of the corrugations and the dust. There are quite a few tarmac sections but the dirt always comes back with a vengeance. I knew the dirt sections stopped 50km north of Laura so the Peninsular Hotel there was my target (off the road a little and camp out the back). It was a very welcome sight after four big ‘diversion’ days.

Drove 480km

Wenlock River

Archer River

Archer River lower bridge

At Archer River RH

Peninsular Hotel

Hotel campground 

Day 14 - 28/8/25

Easy start today as I only had a short 160km drive to Cooktown, or so I thought. I first dropped into Split Rock Aboriginal art site nearby Laura then Black Mountain and Annan River on the way into Cooktown.

Ended up at a very well stocked hardware store to contemplate cupboard support modifications but only purchased more cloth tape to help hold things together. The telescopic strut was functional but did require periodic ‘tightening up’.

Had a look at the caravan park I intended to stay at as well as the main street and didn’t ‘get the vibe’ so sat on the waterfront considering other locations. Very picturesque outlook, by the way. A rare occurrence of La Bestia and the coastline, especially the east coast.

I saw glowing reviews of a little campground at Bloomfield 100km south so off I toddled. It was also at the northern end of the Bloomfield track which winds 40km along the Daintree Rainforest to Cape Tribulation. It was my intention to head that way but I didn’t know much about the degree of 4WD difficulty. Thankfully there were others there who came the other way and advised that La Bestia would be fine. The tricky bits are the steep sections rather than the creek crossings at this time of year. I will find out in a few days.

The campground and owners are fantastic. Discount for cash with power, water and wifi for $20/night! Most are double that or more up here. A downside is that it is being used as a road construction crew camp at the moment so there’s a fair bit of traffic in and out from early in the morning. Not that much of a drama really. A few days R&R will give me time to relax a bit and do some cleaning and washing . Red dust is everywhere and in everything. I got up and cleaned the solar panel on the roof which was pretty dirty. I had cleaned it near Burketown after figuring out how to get high enough to reach it.

Lots of different bird sounds and very hard to spot in the tall trees and thick undergrowth. I did snap an orange footed scrub fowl in the fading light though. There are both blue winged and laughing kookaburras around this area. They appeared to be competing for territory back at Laura.

Drove 210km

Black Mountain 

Annan River

Mount Pieter Botte in the distance (Daintree)

Orange footed scrub fowl

Night lights in the caravan park

Day 15 - 29/8/25

It’s a fair bit cooler here than inland which is a welcome relief at the moment. The tall tree cover blocks a lot of the sun which is why I opted for power rather than shifting solar panels around all day. 

The red dust EVERYWHERE has got to me so I spent the day pulling everything out of the boot and washing it down as well as wiping down all of the doors to avoid ‘red hands’ every time I opened them. Bloody tiring but cathartic. Bathroom tomorrow.

Spotted a strikingly yellow coloured figbird on high and managed to get an image. Also a tall large leaved ‘tree’ which appeared to be parasitic with large yellow flowers. An almighty rumble between the orange footed scrub fowls was quite entertaining.

Cooked up an Indian banquet tonight and enjoyed it immensely. Papads, dhal, and naan with lime & mixed pickle with mint chutney on the side.

Day 16 - 30/8/25

Cleaned the ensuite which seems to really suck the dust in so I need to find some gaps and plug them eventually.

Still trying to decide which way to go home. Not really interested in the coast so will head back to the Atherton Tablelands after Daintree. The current point of no return is when I reach Boulia via Winton and the Outback Way. Still contemplating heading to Birdsville, into western NSW and ending up in Victoria for the MotoGP to avoid flying back in October.

Bloomfield 4WD track tomorrow.

Day 17 - 31/8/25

A short 40km drive but a goodun. Steepest ‘road’ La Bestia has been on. Pretty much Low range 4WD for 30km. Climbing up 140m at 20% gradient three or four times. Coming down was scarier in some ways (brakes!).

Lots of road works so single lane constrained in some parts. Creek crossings were shallow or dry. Driving through rainforest is kinda different for a Western Australian. More hanging vines but not as dodgy as Pajinka was.

Not a lot of photo opportunities so I carried on to Cowie Beach then Cape Tribulation itself. Wandered around a bit. A few others about but not many.

Ended up at a great campground with a massive area where you choose where to set up. Brilliant. Three nights here. There is one hike up a mountain nearby which beckons. 727m gain in 3.5km called Mt Sorrow, hmmm.

Bloomfield Track

Emmagen Creek

Cape Tribulation

Standing on Cape Tribulation looking north

Standing on Cape Tribulation looking south

Campground 

Day 18 - 1/9/25

Woke up to no wind and a bit of sunshine. There were spatters of rain overnight but not much. I clambered out to see Mt Sorrow beckoning in the distance so I got my act together and loaded up the pack and headed off. It was a 3km walk to get to the trail head which sparked up the corpuscles prior to starting the climb.

Oh and what a climb it was! ‘Brutal’ is my best description. Magical rainforest but steep, oh so steep. 45% grade in a couple of places had me scrambling using tree roots as my helpers. I could stick my arm out and touch the trail in front of me. The vines presented trip hazards everywhere. Quite a few fallen trees to negotiate as well. It turned out that reaching the top of Mt Sorrow is no longer permitted due to ‘safety’ reasons so you can only go to an overgrown ‘viewing platform’. I struggle with this approach. The entire track is dangerous if approached lightly. Perhaps ‘safety’ is a convenient excuse?

Not as many critters as I expected considering I was first on the trail. Not a lot of scat or bird calls. A few skinks but not much else.

Very steamy conditions sucked the fluids out all the way. My legs ended up a mixture between jelly and quicksand. I burned more calories descending than climbing. Very satisfying nonetheless. Rockwallaby in her element. A cocktail of ibuprofen, magnesium and hydralite was consumed soon after arriving back at camp. The terms ‘cactus’ and ‘kaput’ came to mind.

I couldn’t be bothered cooking so I went to the Sandbar for a very good wood fired pizza and a beer.

Hiked 12.5km including 822m ascent

Day 19 - 2/9/25

Recuperation day today. Ended up better than expected this morning. Went for a short walk looking for a 🐊 but nada. A lace monitor did wander by and I spied a Brown Cuckoo-Dove.

I have been having issues with my main sliding door so I booked it into Cairns Mercedes next week to see if they can fix it. It has been repaired before in 2022. Clearly a weakness as the chap I talked to wasn’t surprised. Hopefully it can be done under warranty. I hadn’t intended to go to Cairns but needs must. I will do some more exploration of the Daintree and Atherton Tablelands in the meantime.

Day 20 - 3/9/25

Drove a short distance to camp at Daintree on the south side of the river ferry crossing. $31 is a lot cheaper than $175 for the Jardine and the river is twice as wide 🤷‍♀️. Stopped at Noah Beach then a local ice-cream factory with exotic tropical flavours and Cow Beach for a drone flight.

Daintree Beach Resort has a full range of accommodation including free range unpowered at the beach front. Pop up caravan bar and cafe as well.

I finally got an image, albeit in low light, of a Bush Stone-curlew. They are generally after midnight foragers and have an unmistakable call like a screaming child. They clearly wander this camp looking for tidbits. Also snapped a Metallic Starling in amongst a huge flock perched in palms.

Day 21 - 4/9/25

Nothing much to report as I am ‘killing time’ to arrive at Cairns Mercedes on Tuesday. I did get a rare shot of a sunrise over the water (for a Western Australian). Off to Bob Katter territory at Mareeba tomorrow.

Bent legs!

Day 22 - 5/9/25

I’m pretty much at my limit of coastline stuff by now after a week. Clearly I feel more comfortable inland. The humidity doesn’t help. Mind you the drive from Mossman to Mount Molloy is pretty engaging with the twists and turns as you climb up toward the Atherton Tablelands.

Camped at the permanent Mareeba rodeo facility with sprawling campgrounds but totally exposed to the incessant wind. No doubt why there is a large wind turbine farm on a nearby ridge. Rode into town and felt really exposed on the tarmac. There are no shoulders on an already narrow pavement. Decided to take to the embankment instead.

Bob Katter’s electoral office is here. There is quite a difference in ‘vibe’ to Atherton just 40km away. As a side note many of the older brick building facades are art-deco around this region.

Drove 100km

Day 23 - 6/9/25

Spent the day hiding from the wind. I had to pack the awning away which meant I had no shade so ended up inside most of the time. Fortunately it’s MotoGP weekend so I had a focal point. I also changed out the cabin air filter and the engine air filter. Both were putrid. Highly recommend Burson Auto Parts in Atherton for not so common vehicle parts.

There are termite mounds dotted about the grounds. Cairns tomorrow even though I hadn’t intended to go there. 

Rodeo First Aid hut

Plenty of wind around here

Day 24 - 7/9/25

Pretty drive to Cairns via Kuranda so technically I have now completed the entire Savannah Way from Broome to Cairns with a few side shuffles along the way. Lots of roadworks with single lane sections. Quite a bit of rain as well. I suppose I am in the highlands of the tropics and should be expected.

Lobbed at a caravan park 7km from the city where the Mercedes Dealership is. I am parked beside a creek with lots of fish and turtles. Unfortunately that also makes it a focal point for the free range kids in the park.

Day 25 - 8/9/25

Organising my stuff just in case they have to keep the van overnight. Putting together grab bags to enable me to find accommodation in the city and have my essentials with me. Hopefully that won’t happen and I’ll be able to ‘get out of Dodge’. Too busy, too many people and all in a hurry. Not my scene at all.

Did take the time to wander up to a local lookout. Nice 200m ascent. Significantly, that’s the end of this phase of the trip. A new album will be created ‘going home from Cairns’

Hiked 6.8km including 214m ascent

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Drove 3900km

Hiked total 44.8km including total 1605m ascent

I am really pleased with taking the effort to head to The Cape. Not a place I would want to go again but a great experience. The Atherton Tablelands, however…

Cairns places me diagonally opposite Perth geographically. Tis a long way home.

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