The WA/SA border opened in September soon after my Northern Goldfields trip so the opportunity arose to take La Bestia across the Nullarbor and take in the Gawler Ranges and central Flinders Ranges - Ikara. This would be my first personal ground based crossing as well. The inventory and loadout/packing arrangement was now crystallising for spares, equipment, food, consumables, activity gear, clothes, and drinks.
The crossing was going to be a bit of a cannonball run to meet a scheduled booking at Ceduna Caravan Park so I would have to experience the points of interest on the return journey.
Day 1 - 21/9/2021
Drove to a roadside gravel pit on the Coolgardie- Esperance Hwy to stay the night. This is not something I would normally do as a solo traveller however my intended ‘off the main road’ location had been closed off. Having vehicles slow down and stop nearby makes me a little nervous. Not the best night sleep even though I am inside a locked vehicle.
Drove 675km
Day 2 - 22/9/2021
Continued on to free camp at the top of the Madura pass. I had dropped in to the Caiguna Blowhole at the eastern end of the 90 mile straight on the way. There were masses of march flies at the site and I seem to attract them so I didn’t spend much time outside.
Drove 580km
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| Madura Pass |
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| Campsite |
Day 3 - 23/9/2021
Hightailed it to Eucla for fuel and had a poke around the old telegraph station near the coast then onward to Ceduna Foreshore Caravan Park. Nice location but a bit busy and squeezy for me.
Drove 675km
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| Old telegraph station Eucla |
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| From the top of Eucla Pass |
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| Eucla Pass |
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| Looking west along the cliffs |
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| The ‘no trees’ bit |
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| Campsite at Ceduna |
Day 4/5/6 - 24,25,26/9/2021
Spent the time wandering about Ceduna and the old port area of Thevenard. Interesting history. I somehow took no pics at all. I was also busily knocking together a route plan as this trip was a bit ‘figure it out on the run’ after Ceduna.
Day 7 - 27/9/2021
Headed to Baird Bay camping area via Smoky Bay and Streaky Bay to see if I could squeeze into a ‘swim with the sealions’ excursion. I was fortunate enough to get in on a cancellation. Took a trip around the headland at Streaky Bay while there.
Drove 160km
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| Smoky Bay jetty |
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| Headland at Streaky Bay |
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| Blowholes |
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| Headland at Streaky Bay |
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| Eyre’s waterhole just outside Streaky Bay |
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| Eyre’s waterhole just outside Streaky Bay |
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| Pelicans at Baird Bay |
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| Cormorants at Baird Bay |
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| Out front of the sea lion experience base |
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| Campsite |
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| Sunset over Baird Bay |
Day 8 - 28/9/2021
Walked down to the meeting point at ‘Baird Bay Experience’. The water was freezing but the wetsuits thick and warmish, eventually. They take you out to Jones Island at the entrance to the bay where the sea-lions usually come down to swim however today was a day of rest for all but the young curious ones. We did get to swim with the dolphins as a consolation prize. I didn’t carry my GoPro this time, unfortunately. Another item to add to my loadout checklist.
Had a nice hot shower and headed off to my next bush campsite further down Eyre Peninsula toward Elliston.
Drove 90km
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| Baird Bay campground |
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| Looking back up the access road |
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| Walking down the beach |
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| Local visitor |
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| Bush camp for the night |
Day 9 - 29/9/2021
The weather forecast for further down the peninsula was less than appealing so I hurriedly headed north east toward Gawler Ranges NP to escape the worst of it. There are very few through ways back to the Eyre Hwy from where I was so I ended up on some farming tracks to get to Minnipa. I then did a reconnaissance runout to one of the camping areas and popped into Stone Dam and Old Paney Homestead ‘points of interest’ on the way back to a free camp at Pildappa Rock (long drop toilets) via Wudina.
Drove 325km
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| Emu on back road |
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| Entrance to Gawler Range NP |
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| Stone Dam |
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| Old Paney homestead |
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| Gnarly tree at Old Paney |
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| Campsite at Pildappa Rock |
Day 10 - 30/9/2021
Up early to walk around the rock and launch the drone. I then headed to Scrubby Peak for a climb and onward to Yandinga Campground for three nights.
Drove 92km
Hiked 2.8km including 221m ascent
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| Along the rock |
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| On the rock |
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| From the air |
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| The entire rock outcrop |
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| Trailhead for Scrubby Peak |
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| Scrubby Peak |
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| Scrubby Peak summit cairn |
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| From the top |
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| From the top |
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| Found a friend |
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| Another friend |
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| Campsite at Yandinga |
Day 11 - 1/10/2021
Big day of off piste hiking taking in the five waterfalls and the organ pipes by ‘going over the top’ of the ridges between the campground and the points of interest. Curiously I didn’t record it completely on my Garmin watch. There are two connecting sectors that I had to estimate for the deets.
Hiked 11.9km including 480m ascent
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| Heading that way |
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| Looking back down |
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| Nice view up here |
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| Another skink |
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| I see you hiding |
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| Fascinating geology |
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| Falling posts of rock |
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| Up the valley |
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| Dry waterfall |
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| Pretty bloom |
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| Rising watercourse |
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| Up to of the ridge |
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| Across the valley floor |
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| The Organ Pipes |
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| Scaly friend |
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| Going higher |
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| An actual rock wallaby |
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| Pretty |
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| Scrubby Peak in the distance |
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| Camp is that way |
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| Creek bed |
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| A few feral goats about |
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| Rough watercourse |
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| Camp is that way |
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| Water way |
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| Fascinating |
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| Another lizard |
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| Back again |
Day 12 - 2/10/2021
Rest and recuperation day today. Moving on tomorrow.
Day 13 - 3/10/2021
Made my way over the ridge via the Loop Trail. A bit of a steep 4WD pinch point but not that bad. This took me to Pondanna Outstation then onward to Old Kolay Hut Camp. Great little spot with wood fired donkey heater hot water. Pulled the bike out to do a reconnaissance run to nearby Kolay Mirica Falls.
Drove 48km
Rode 3.2km including 37m ascent
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| More interesting outcrops |
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| More ‘organ pipe’ than the other one |
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| Vertical fissures |
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| Kolay camp |
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| Donkey heater |
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| Off piste hike planning |
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| Old Kolay Hut |
Day 14 - 4/10/2021
Another off piste loop hike over the Mt Fairview ridge to the adjacent Chillunie campground and back. Nice one. Somehow I didn’t take many pics.
Hiked 8.7km including 360m ascent
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| Summit of Mt Fairview |
Hiking deets
Day 15 - 5/10/2021
Mostly a recuperation day but wandered up the ridge to get telecoms reception. Launched the drone as well.
Hiked 2.3km including 132m ascent
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| Having a scratch |
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| Pretty |
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| Mount Double in the distance |
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| The ridge nearby |
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| Kolay Camp |
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| Loop Track heading west |
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| Mt Fairview ridge |
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| Warmies |
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| Pizza night |
Hiking deets
Day 16 - 6/10/2021
R&R day today. Drove a short distance out of the National Park boundary to collect some firewood and extend my stay at Kolay Hut.
Drove 40km
Day 17 - 7/10/2021
Wandered about camp today. Nothing too exciting but did some bird spotting. Wonderful hot shower from the yesterday’s firewood.
Day 18 - 8/10/2021
Up stumps today to head to Kimba campground and squeezed in a climb of Mt Allalone on the way.
Drove
Hiked 2.5km including 127m ascent
Hiking deets
Day 19 - 9/10/2021
Spent the day wandering around town after carrying out a wheel rotation.
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| Kimba galah |
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| Kimba campground |
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| Comfy campsite. Great facilities here |
Day 20 - 10/10/2021
Heading to the nearest Repco at Whyalla to procure a breaker bar as I struggled to undo the wheel studs during a wheel rotation yesterday. Dropped into Secret Rocks Conservation area Nildjinna, after which I continued on toward Flinders Ranges - Ikara and stopped overnight at a caravan park in Stirling North. Simple clean and well priced.
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| North Stirling |
Day 21 - 11/10/2021
Drove to Devil’s Peak trailhead and took a hike. This was certainly a heart starter. I continued on to camp at Wilpena Pound Resort for six nights. Lots of hiking opportunities here.
Drove 155km
Hiked 2.8km including 267m ascent
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| Devils Peak |
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| Going up |
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| Another friend |
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| Getting higher |
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| The summit |
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| Looking back |
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| Along the road to Ikara |
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| First glimpse of Wilpena Pound structure |
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| Wilpena Pound campground |
Hike deets
Day 22 - 12/10/2021
Big one today. Hiked for 7+ hrs. Fantastic day indeed. So many pics I had to summarise.
Hiked 22km including 792m ascent
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| Early start |
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| The initial objective |
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| Wonderful views |
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| Getting closer |
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| At the summit |
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| A sharp drop |
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| Beaut |
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| Hard going at times |
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| Classic Wilpena Pound geology |
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| Heavy going |
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| At the saddle |
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| More hard work |
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| Precipitous |
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| Inside the pound |
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| Some wonderful eucalypts |
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| Shepherds hut |
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| Heading back |
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| An emu family |
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| Juvenile emu |
Hike deets
Day 23 - 13/10/2021
Smaller hike up Mount Ohlssen Bagge closer to camp. Had a small birthday celebration afterward as well. My old hiking shoes finally gave out so I gave myself a new pair as a gift.
Hiked 7.8km including 476m ascent
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| Going up again |
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| At the top |
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| Lovely view complete with new hike boots |
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| Looking back into the resort |
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| Yet another friend |
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| Out with the old |
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| Celebration time |
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| Pizza |
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| Yay me |
Hike deets
Day 24 - 14/10/2021
Absolutely pouring rain today. A rivulet developed under the van and Apostle birds hid from the rain.
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| Pouring rain |
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| Under cover |
Day 25 - 15/10/2021
Spent a day ‘drying out’ preparing for a hike up Rawnsley Bluff tomorrow.
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| Drying out |
Day 26 - 16/10/2021
Drove to the trail head and did my thing up to Rawnsley Bluff and Wilpena Lookout. Great experience.
Drove 52km
Hiked 11.7km including 584m ascent
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| Rawnsley bluff |
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| Off I go |
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| Going up |
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| Sweeping view |
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| The cairn |
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| Going back down |
Hike deets
Day 27 - 17/10/2021
Headed back toward Port Augusta and dropped into Mt Brown Conservation Park for another climb. Camped the night back at Stirling North.
Drove 180km
Hiked 15.8km including 664m ascent
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| Cool local |
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| Mt Brown tower |
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| Waukarie Falls |
Hike deets
Day 28 - 18/10/2021
On the way back home now. Pulled into Lake Gilles Conservation Park to have a look before reaching Penong for two nights.
Drove 550km
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| Lake Gilles |
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| Penong windmill museum |
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| Penong caravan park |
Day 29 - 19/10/2021
Took a drive to Fowlers Bay to check it out. Back to Penong Caravan Park for the night.
Drove 140km
Day 30 - 20/10/2021
Up early to visit Point Sinclair on the coast south of Penong before heading west again. Managed to park up on the cliffs on the Bight. An amazing experience.
Drove 315km
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| Pink Lake |
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| ‘Sahara Desert’ on the coast |
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| Bunda Cliffs |
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| Amazing campsite |
Day 31 - 21/10/2021
An absolutely rare windless day so I was able to launch the drone and obtain unforgettable images looking back to the cliff face. Whales frolicking as well. Went to bed pleased as punch.
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| Good morning |
Day 32 - 22/10/2021
Continued west using the ‘extra’ hours of daylight from crossing the border to travel 940km to one of my favourite transit camps at Disappointment Rock on the Granite and Woodlands Trail.
Drove 940km
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| Disappointment Rock |
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| Norseman Hyden Road |
Day 33/34 - 23&24/10/2021
Dropped in the next two nights at nearby McDermid Rock where I bumped into motorcycling friends. Small world.
Drove 30km
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| McDermid Rock |
Day 35 - 25/10/2021
Headed home after a longish and very satisfying trip.
Drove 520km
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This was my first land crossing of the Nullarbor. It really is more interesting than some would lead you to believe. There’s really only one short section of ‘no trees’ (~100km). Gawler Ranges NP was a surprise and Flinders Ranges - Ikara was stupendous. My longest trip to date both in time and distance as well as hiking effort. Wonderful.
Drove 6000km
Hiked total 91.5km including total 4140m ascent
This marked the end of a busy van adventure year getting to know La Bestia. A wonderful steed indeed.
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