My travels thus far had exposed a bit of weakness in La Bestia’s OEM suspension components in terms of front-rear horizontal alignment and corrugated road performance. A bit of research led to replacement of rear shock absorbers and front struts with highly regarded Koni units and adding two helper leafs on the rear to level up the vehicle when loaded.
Now I was ready to ‘go bush’ properly. One of the primary reasons I upgraded to a high clearance 4WD van was to be able to access Purnululu NP. This was so that I could trek into Piccaninny Gorge, the only way in. Adding in another bucket list location of Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater created a logical loop along Tanami Road through Central Australia and back via the Great Central Road (GCR).
I had had to wait a few days for departure anticipating the water level to drop near Ashburton Station to allow me to travel from Mt Augustus to Nanutarra Road.
Day 1 - 7/6/2022
Latish start today. Ended up getting to Coalseam Conservation Park in the dark. My driving lights came in handy. A familiar location nonetheless.
Drove 437km
 |
| Campground |
Day 2 - 8/6/2022
This is one of my favourite step off points when heading north. It’s quite serene outside of the WA wildflower season. Took two separate hikes, one on a marked trail and the other off piste along the breakaway rim to Irwin lookout and then down to the river and return. I was blessed in getting up close to a pair of wedgies.
Hiked 12.6km including 261m ascent.
 |
| Irwin River bed |
 |
| Going up |
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| Nearly there |
 |
| Looking out over the valley |
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| Wedgie |
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| The trail |
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| Irwin lookout |
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| Water in the river |
 |
| Cutting on the curve |
 |
| Wedgie |
Hiking deets
Day 3 - 9/6/2022
Decamped and made my way to Ballinyoo Bridge on the Murchison River. There was quite a flow running due to recent rain in the area. This is a ‘dig your own hole’ campsite.
Drove 180km
 |
| Fiery sunset |
 |
| Clear moon |
Day 4 - 10/6/2022
Continued on to Murchison Oasis RH to refuel, then onward to another favourite, Wooramel River Gorge. A beautiful shallow gorge with semi permanent water. There is much to love about this location. Lots of walking opportunities, a swim or two, and firewood aplenty. Collected some firewood and settled in for the evening.
Drove 220km
 |
| Floodway across Wooramel River |
 |
| Expansive ponding |
 |
| Sheer cliff on the south side |
 |
| Campsite solitude |
Day 5 - 11/6/2022
Awoke to a low misty fog. The sunrise was quite spooky. Took a short hike up the north arm of the river and back. Unbelievably beautiful evening by the fire.
Hiked 5.6km including 24m ascent
 |
| Mist on the webs |
 |
| Surreal sunrise |
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| Two branches upstream |
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| Eucalypts will grow anywhere |
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| Another great sunset |
 |
| Exquisite |
Hiking deets
Day 6 - 12/6/2022
Hiked downstream today and found an island in the middle to wander around and returned up the other side of the gorge. Pretty sunset as well.
Hiked 7.4km including 92m ascent
 |
| ‘Middle’ Island |
 |
| From the top |
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| White gum clings to life |
 |
| Side gorge |
 |
| Serene sunset |
Hiking deets
Day 7 - 13/6/2022
Broke camp and continued on toward Mt Augustus via the back way through Cobra Dairy Creek Rd. I hadn’t looped around this way before past Watham Pool, Mt Dalgety, Thirty Three River and Cobra Homestead. Camped at Mt Augustus Tourist Park for two nights hoping that the back way to Nanutarra-Munjina Rd would open up.
Drove 266km
 |
| The main intersection out here |
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| From the air |
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| Watham Pool |
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| Typical wide floodway |
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| Mt Dalgety |
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| Mt Augustus in the distance |
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| Cobra Station |
 |
| Mt Augustus |
Day 8 - 14/6/2022
I had checked my satellite phone to find that it wasn’t connecting so I spent the day trying to sort out how to fix it. Ended up having replan as a replacement SIM card was being sent to Karratha PO, my nearest logical collection point. I had no intention of going that way but needs must. I would kill some time at Millstream Chichester NP to await arrival of the SIM.
On the plus side the back way to Nanutarra Road had just re-opened. Fortunate timing.
 |
| An imposing edifice |
 |
| No climb this year sadly |
Day 9 15/6/2022
Off I set along Dooley Downs Rd which took me through my first water crossing in La Bestia. Not that deep but a start of many more to come. The route then followed Pingandy Rd which traverses a softish river wash creek crossing and thence Ashburton Downs Meekatharra Rd toward Innawanga. Much more undulating than expected.
The area was so wonderfully remote I decided to drive off the road and camp the night. Pulled the drone out to do a recce run over some nearby high points for a potential morning wander tomorrow.
Drove 200km
 |
| First water crossing |
 |
| End of Pigandy Rd |
 |
| Interesting high point |
 |
| Even more interesting |
 |
| Beaut |
Day 10 16/6/2022
Woke to a morning worthy of a walk and set off toward the high points identified yesterday. They offered sweeping views of the Ashburton River flood plain. It was very green due to the recent rain ( the reason the road had been closed).
After returning to the van I continued on to cross the Ashburton River which was still flowing strongly through the culverts at the floodway. The punt was still beside the road just in case. Reached Nanutarra Munjina Rd and dropped into Tom Price to refuel.
Made my way to a free camp opposite the Hamersley Gorge access road. Nice secluded location in a busy area.
Drove 235km
Hiked 3km including 66m ascent
 |
| Target |
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| Up top |
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| Nice |
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| Ashburton River flood plain |
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| Green |
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| Ashburton River crossing |
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| Nanutarra-Munjina Rd |
 |
| Pilbara landscape |
 |
| Secluded site |
 |
| Big mofo ant hill |
 |
| Sundown |
Hiking deets
Day 11 - 17/6/2022
Went down to Hamersley Gorge for an early morning swim and then drove to Wittenoom Gorge as it was still on my list from 2017. The scenery did not disappoint. Didn’t go all the way in as the spoil heaps of the old processing plant are not to be toyed with.
Drove the rough road to Millstream via the Roebourne Wittenoom Rd. Once is enough. I highly recommend you do the permit test and drive the Rio Tinto railway access road instead if travelling from Tom Price to Millstream Chichester NP. I set up camp at Stargazers.
Drove 250km
 |
| Hamersley Gorge car park |
 |
| Amazing rock strata |
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| A little water flowing |
 |
| Looking upstream |
 |
| I swam through the gap and back |
 |
| Driving down the Hammersley Range gap |
 |
| Wittenoom |
 |
| Driving into the gorge |
 |
| Lush green growth all around |
 |
| The old paved road |
 |
| Magenta pom pom |
 |
| Blue asbestos safely contained |
 |
| Tricky crossings |
 |
| Doc Holidays cafe |
 |
| Stargazers campground |
Day 12 - 18/6/2022
Arose to a dodgy looking sky so went for a walk along the Red Roo Trail nearby. It runs along the Fortescue River breakaway ledge.
Came back and carried out a full six wheel rotation as the 8000km cycle was up and the sites are flat and well packed for using a vehicle jack.
Hiked 6.4km including 27m ascent
 |
| Fortescue River valley |
 |
| Wheel rotation |
Hiking deets
Day 13 - 19/6/2022
Got the bike out to ride along Snappy Gum Drive as it was washed out in places and closed to vehicular traffic. No problemo from the mighty mtb! A great ride it was as well. Had to carry across two deep wash outs but the remainder was fine.
Rode 29.2km including 194m ascent
 |
| Looking back across the river |
 |
| Great landscape |
 |
| Up the top |
 |
| Crossing the Fortescue River floodway |
 |
| The route |
Ride deets
Day 14 - 20/6/2022
I was still waiting for the SIM card to arrive in Karratha so I moved to Miliyanha Campground 2km down the road as Stargazers was booked out for tonight. There was an astronomical event early the next morning so I dossed down early. Lotsa mozzies here as it is close to the river.
Drove 2km
 |
| Alignment of the planets predicted by Star Walk2 |
Day 15 - 21/6/2022
Arose early to witness an alignment of most of the planets, pretty cool. Decamped and headed toward the Chichester part of the park. Lordy the road is super corrugated but well worth the effort. The landscape is wonderful. Made my way to Python Pool. Wow! I needed to mark this area down for future reference as there is a hiking trail to be enjoyed.
Extracted myself from the water and headed toward Karratha Post Office along a well made tarmac roadway. The iron ore trains are immense at something like 2.5km. Collected my replacement SIM and tested the sat phone connection and all was good again. I wouldn’t traverse Piccaninny Gorge or Tanami Rd without one.
Took the opportunity for a small resupply in town then headed to a free camp at Yule River. Popular location.
Drove 180km
 |
| The changing nature of Chichester Range |
 |
| Super green |
 |
| Zero growth |
 |
| Stark contrasts |
 |
| Path to Python Pool |
 |
| Python Pool |
 |
| Ore train |
 |
| Yule River camp |
 |
| Nice night |
Day 16 - 22/6/2022
Drove to South Hedland for a full resupply and refuel then 80 Mile Beach Caravan Park to spend two nights. Lots of semi permanent sites here and very fisher person feel. Again not my cup of tea but the showers were welcome, as were the ice creams.
Drove 300km
 |
| Nearing the Marble Bar Rd intersection |
 |
| 80 Mile Beach caravan park |
 |
| Pigeons |
 |
| Sunset |
Day 17 - 23/6/2022
Spent the day pottering about as the ocean is unsafe for swimming here.
 |
| Sunrise |
Day 18 - 24/6/2022
Upped stumps and moved on toward Broome Bunnings as I wanted a spare in line water filter. Dropped in to Sandfire Roadhouse on the way to have a look. Left Broome as soon as I could, too busy for me, then onward to Willare Roadhouse to stay the night. I’m in the Kimberley proper now. Boab trees around.
Drove 550km
 |
| Boabs in Broome |
 |
| Willare RH |
Day 19 - 25/6/2022
Continued on to Derby, cringed at the Boab Prison Tree history and headed toward Windjana Gorge Campground along the Gibb River Rd. The first 100km to the Windjana turn off is sealed. The campground churns over an amazing number of visitors as it is either the step off point or end of the Gibb River Road route.
Went for a short walk to the entrance to the gorge to see the numerous fresh water crocs.
Drove 190km
 |
| Prison tree |
 |
| Derby main street |
 |
| Windjana Gorge campground |
 |
| Entering the gorge |
 |
| Looking back out |
 |
| Looking further in |
 |
| Friendly local freshie |
 |
| Late afternoon lighting |
Day 20 - 26/6/2022
Went for a longer hike to the end of the trail in the gorge.
Hiked 7.4km including 70m ascent
Hike deets
Day 21 - 27/6/2022
I had booked here for tonight but the campground was too busy for my liking so I moved on. I drove further down Fairfield Leopold Downs Rd to Tunnel Creek NP and walked through the subterranean trail which requires a deep wade through a dark cavern stream. Fantastic experience. There was one pair of pink eyes looking at me (freshie croc).
Made my way toward Fitzroy Crossing to refuel and have lunch, then onward to camp at Mary Pool Rest Area overnight. My first real creek crossing presented itself just after Tunnel Creek. I waited for a truck to come the other way to gauge the depth.
Drove 330km
Hiked 2km through the tunnel and back
 |
| The entry |
 |
| Looking out |
 |
| Fantastic |
 |
| Gap in the centre |
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| Amazing shapes |
 |
| For scale |
 |
| The other end |
 |
| First true creek crossing in the Kimberley |
 |
| Fitzroy River |
 |
| Mary Pool campground |
Day 22 - 28/6/2022
Big day today. My first trip into Purnululu. 52km of pretty demanding rough road with 7 creek crossings, two of them quite deep. I called in at China Wall just outside Halls Creek on the way up the Great Northern Hwy.
I managed to negotiate the road into Purnululu and sorted out a permit for the Piccaninny Gorge trek at the visitor centre. They actually hire out PLBs as they are necessary to obtain a permit. I have one of my own so they register the serial number.
This is where I found out that you can have five nights up there rather than just one (as I had thought). Problem was I had only brought my overnight hiking gear and not my full bifta trekking gear. I had to be creative in loading my 40L pack for two nights.
In the meantime I drove north to experience Echidna Chasm then back to Kurrajong campground for the night and prepare my hiking gear.
Drove 270km
Hiked 2km
 |
| China wall |
 |
| Purnululu entry |
 |
| Road into Purnululu |
 |
| Quite green |
 |
| Further in |
 |
| Inside the tourist area |
 |
| Echidna Chasm car park |
 |
| Entry to Echidna Chasm |
 |
| The chasm |
 |
| Further in |
 |
| A bit of greenery |
 |
| Typical conglomerate of the ranges |
 |
| Kurrajong campground |
Day 23 - 29/6/2022
Very excited to decamp and drive to the Piccaninny carpark where I had to leave a note on the dashboard to advise when I was returning from the gorge (as well as the permit number). I loaded up and toddled off on one of my big ticket bucket list items.
15km of hard slog along a predominantly sandy creek bed was challenging but rewarding. The landscape was wonderful and the only way to experience it up close is to hike in. There was more water pooling than I expected which came in useful later. The unexpected thing was that once you get to ‘base camp’ there are five additional side gorges to explore.
I reached base camp and an adventure group was there so I walked back around a gorge bend and set up my bivouac on a soft sandy base. Just amazing. I was navigating mostly by AllTrails on my phone and old school paper map as my hiking watch struggled inside the narrow gorges.
It was time for bed after a hard day.
Drove 25km
Hiked 15.9km including 132m ascent
 |
| The map |
 |
| On the way to the car park |
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| Getting closer |
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| Beehive structures |
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| The start of the trek |
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| On my way |
 |
| Along the creek bed |
 |
| Deep fissures |
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| Heavy going in the sand |
 |
| Deep erosion |
 |
| Side wall erosion |
 |
| Turning the corner at the ‘elbow’ |
 |
| Looking back at the elbow |
 |
| Black Rock Pool |
 |
| Black Rock Pool |
 |
| Rock fall zone to negotiate |
 |
| Clinging on high up |
 |
| Base camp area |
 |
| My bivvie |
 |
| Majestic palm up top |
Hike deets
Day 24 - 30/6/2022
A light pack day which was a relief. I had limited time so I was only able to explore side gorges 1, 2, and 5 and the confluence of 4 & 5. Moving along the main gorge was a process of trial and error getting from A to B due to rock ledges and water pools. Quite satisfying to successfully traverse each gorge.
Back at camp, dusk was welcomed so that the aircraft stopped flying over the gorge. Nightfall was blissful. Such a shame I hadn’t brought my trek pack. The experience was nonetheless invigorating and most memorable.
Hiked 13.8km including 218m ascent
 |
| Cold water pool |
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| Side gorge 2 |
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| End of the trail |
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| Water hole at base camp |
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| Along the base of the main gorge |
 |
| Side gorge 5 |
 |
| Convergence of side gorges 3 & 4 |
 |
| Under the rock |
 |
| End of the trail |
 |
| Under the rock |
 |
| Narrow gaps |
 |
| Along the upper shelf of the gorge |
 |
| Choppers were a bit annoying |
Hike deets (the Garmin struggled with gps fixes)
Day 25 - 1/7/2022
Time to depart this wonderful place as much as I didn’t want to, I had run out of water and had to treat some to get back. Fortunately there were small fish in a pool which indicates decent quality so I sourced it there. Made my way back to the carpark, unloaded the pack, had lunch and a large hydration drink and returned to Cathedral Gorge nearby.
Time to return to Kurrajong campground for the night.
Drove 25km
Hiked 18.4km including 158m ascent
 |
| Path into Cathedral Gorge |
 |
| Cathedral Gorge |
Hike deets
Day 26 - 2/7/2022
Headed back out of the park to the Great Northern Hwy and north to Kununurra to regroup, refresh, resupply and do some laundry. I camped at Hidden Valley Caravan Park which backs on to the Mirima NP.
Drove 300km
 |
| First creek crossing on the way out |
 |
| Long creek crossing |
 |
| Deep creek crossing |
 |
| Kelly’s Knob Kununurra |
 |
| Hidden Valley caravan park |
Day 27 - 3/7/2022
Laundry and R&R today. Also contemplating the fuel requirements for heading down the Tanami.
 |
| Interesting combo rig |
 |
| Mirima NP out the back |
 |
| Over the back fence |
Day 28 - 4/7/2022
Took a day trip to Wyndham via the highway and back via Parry Creek Road which runs close the lower Ord.
Drove 225km
 |
| The road to Wyndham |
 |
| From five rivers lookout |
 |
| From five rivers lookout |
 |
| From five rivers lookout |
 |
| Pretty bloom |
 |
| Wyndham croc |
 |
| Parry Creek Rd |
 |
| An array of boabs |
 |
| Lower Ord River |
 |
| Lunch spot |
 |
| Road crew |
 |
| Heading back |
Day 29 - 5/7/2022
Took a day trip out to Lake Argyle. Great day for taking in the sights near the main wall. Also decided to purchase a third fuel can just in case as it was 1000km from Halls Creek to Alice Springs and fuel availability wasn’t guaranteed along Tanami Rd.
Drove 150km
 |
| The wall |
 |
| Huge expanse of water |
 |
| Outflow to the Ord River |
 |
| Rainbow bee eater |
Day 30 - 6/7/2022
Broke camp and headed south to Halls Creek where I fuelled up and headed along Tanami Rd. to Wolfe Creek Campground. Boy oh boy the access road was rough but the effort worth it. I managed to catch the sunset from the crater rim.
Drove 510km
Day 31 - 7/7/2022
Up early to catch the sunrise and hike around the rim and down into the centre to go fly a drone.
Tonight was another bucket list item, to watch the movie Wolf Creek at Wolfe Creek. It’s the only time I have carried my TV as it has a dvd player in it. Most people thought I was crazy.
Hiked 5.3km including 119m ascent
Hike deets
Day 32 - 8/7/2022
Broke camp and made my way back to Tanami Rd. I stopped in at Bililuna just in case they had fuel which they did so I topped up. You never pass an operational fuel stop out here, you don’t know where the next one is. With three spare cans on board I would easily reach Alice Springs now.
Continued on to set up camp at a remote site just off the road and not far over the NT border. The drone pics show just how much nothingness there is out here. What a wonderful night.
Drove 280km
 |
| Border control lol |
Day 33 - 9/7/2022
Kept going south east toward Alice Springs and stopped outside Newmont Tanami minesite to use the mobile reception. Pulled in to Renehans Bore for an early lunch and was greeted by an opportunistic dingo that seemed rather used to humans. No food from me but I did fill up the dish under the water tank.
The NT side was rough going. Heavy corrugations and the occasional bull dust patch. Not many other vehicles out here. Continued on to make camp at Mount Doreen ruins which is an abandoned Tungsten mine. Looked like some hiking opportunities here. The night sky was magnificent.
Drove 300km
 |
| Long way from anywhere |
 |
| Rough going |
 |
| Ant mounds |
 |
| Comms! |
 |
| Road train |
 |
| Random black top |
 |
| Friendly dingo |
 |
| Wolfram Hill |
 |
| Mt Doreen |
 |
| Bush camp |
Day 34 - 10/7/2022
Went for a hike to a nearby rock outcrop after checking it out with the drone. Such beautiful landscape and solitude.
Hiked 8km including 101m ascent
 |
| The target |
 |
| Climbing up |
 |
| On top |
 |
| Looking back up |
 |
| Solitude |
 |
| Great night |
Hike deets
Day 35 - 11/7/2022
Decamped and continued on. This was the hardest 100km I had ever driven. The corrugations were huge and impossible to skip over so it was pretty much 25-30kmh all the way. I was continually chasing the shoulder to get one wheel track on relatively smooth ground on either side of the road.
There were a few road trains carrying road making equipment as they were cutting a new road parallel to the existing one. I was very glad of my suspension upgrade at this point.
Made it to Tilmouth Well RH where I was able to fuel up and snag a powered site to run the air conditioner just to blow the dust out. Nothing had fallen apart on the van after sustained hard going so I was rather pleased.
Drove 160km (felt like 400)
Day 36 - 12/7/2022
Continued on toward Alice Springs. The road was paved now except that closer to the Stuart Hwy the old pavement was only one vehicle wide which meant you had to get off completely if a road train came along the other direction. The 50-70mm step at the side of the asphalt put the side walls of the tyres at risk when coming back onto the tarmac.
I got to the Stuart Hwy intersection safely and headed south for a resupply in Alice Springs before heading out Larapinta Drive to camp on the Hugh River. What a great location.
Drove 245km
 |
| One vehicle wide |
 |
| Yes indeed |
 |
| Back the other way |
 |
| Stuart Hwy |
 |
| Larapinta Drive |
 |
| Hugh River |
 |
| Nice and quiet |
 |
| Spectacular evening (no filter) |
Day 37 - 13/7/2022
Woke up a little chilly, ice on the outdoor table and vehicle. Central Australia does get rather cold at night. Backtracked to Standley Chasm and took a walk up and back. Pretty place. Headed west along Namatjira Drive and dropped into Ellery Creek Big Hole. Too cold for a swim imo.
Moved on to Redbank Gorge to check out the Mt Sonder trail (part of the famed Larapinta Trail). I wanted to experience the sunrise over Mt Zeil so I headed back to the ridgetop camping area for the night.
Drove 175km
 |
| Early morning fire |
 |
| Ice on the jacket |
 |
| Entrance to Standley Chasm |
 |
| Trail to the chasm |
 |
| Bird shaped leaves |
 |
| Further in |
 |
| Getting closer |
 |
| Into the chasm |
 |
| The chasm looking back |
 |
| Ellery Creek Big Hole |
 |
| Mt Sonder |
Day 38 - 14/7/2022
Arose very early, decamped and headed down to the trail head. I set off in bright moonlight at 0445 and refrained from using my headlight the entire way. Such a beautiful sensory climb. There were a number of tour groups however I managed to stay between them to maintain some solitude.
I reached the summit at the right moment to witness a most amazing sunrise. The views over the West Macdonnell Ranges just mind blowing. I could actually see the triangular shadow of Mt Sonder reaching westward. Going back down demonstrated just how precarious some of the trail was.
Next stop was Tnorala / Gosse Bluff crater impact site which rises majestically above the surrounding plain. Launched the drone for a short time to get an elevated view.
I intended to drive to Watarrka via the Mereenie Loop so I had to obtain a permit at the Hermannsburg General Store 60km further east. After that I headed west and found an old grader bus stop style camp to make camp. Lots of opportunity for wandering around off piste.
Drove 225km
Hiked 15.5km including 877m ascent
 |
| Heading out in bright moonlight |
 |
| Mt Sonder trail |
 |
| A bit precarious in limited light |
 |
| Sunrise over Mt Zeil |
 |
| It was chilly |
 |
| One of my favourite pics of all time |
 |
| Pretty Hakea |
 |
| Notice our shadow casting on the plain middle right |
 |
| Great views all round |
 |
| Ooh it WAS precarious |
 |
| Up there to get back |
 |
| Quite high up |
 |
| Redbank gorge |
 |
| Dry river bed in Redbank gorge |
 |
| Tnorala Gosse Bluff |
 |
| Closer to the structure |
 |
| Inside the crater |
 |
| Steep edifice |
 |
| Out Mereenie Loop at Pine Point |
 |
| Camp for a few days |
Hike deets
Day 39 - 15/7/2022
Spent the day recovering, pottering about camp and collecting some more firewood. I took some time to survey the nearby cliff face on the other side of the road to find a climbing route. Lots of Zebra Finches about which indicates water nearby.
 |
| Sunrise |
 |
| Horse tracks |
 |
| Along the creek bed |
 |
| Washed out root system |
 |
| Escarpment on the other side |
 |
| Cute |
 |
| Pied Butcherbird |
Day 40 - 16/7/2022
Took two short hikes on either side of the road. Spotted some wild horses on my travels.
Hiked 5.8km including 128m ascent
 |
| This be the way up |
 |
| Nice |
 |
| Over the back of the escarpment |
 |
| Good climbing |
 |
| So many layers |
 |
| Pretty |
 |
| On the edge |
 |
| Torresian Crow |
 |
| There’s the water |
 |
| Over the back |
 |
| Wild horses |
 |
| Varied geology |
Hike deets
Day 41 - 17/7/2022
Headed off to Morris Pass to camp the night at a busy location which is close to Watarrka - Kings Canyon.
 |
| Watarrka in the distance |
 |
| Jump up at Morris Pass |
Day 42 - 18/7/2022
Up early to drive to Watarrka and set off on the walking trail around the canyon rim, followed by a wander up the canyon floor. An interesting interaction with a ranger during the rim walk alerted me to the existence of an overnight trek called Giles Track. I had the equipment from Purnululu so I made a snap decision to do it.
Off I set 22km east to Kathleen Springs day area, hurriedly dug my trekking kit out, loaded up and set off at 1530. Such a great experience apart from being a little under prepared. I hiked 8km in before I found a site for my bivouac near the edge of the escarpment. Pitched camp and marvelled at the wonderful landscape. Ended up falling asleep to the howls of nearby dingoes.
Drove 60km
Hiked 17.7km including 399m ascent
 |
| Going up |
 |
| Getting higher |
 |
| Upper level |
 |
| Looking up the canyon |
 |
| Up top now |
 |
| Looking along |
 |
| Head of the canyon |
 |
| Down the canyon from the head |
 |
| Garden of Eden |
 |
| Beehive structures |
 |
| Looks like Purnululu |
 |
| Rugged |
 |
| My target tomorrow |
 |
| Up the canyon floor |
 |
| End of the trail |
 |
| Kathleen Springs |
 |
| Giles Track |
 |
| Varied vegetation |
 |
| Colour contrast |
 |
| 5km in.17km to go |
 |
| Looking out from the escarpment |
 |
| Bivvy set |
 |
| Got this far |
Hike deets
Day 43 - 19/7/2022
Decamped and set off toward Watarrka, 14km west. This sector was amazing. Having hiked in Purnululu, here I was walking through very similar beehive structures but near the top rather than the bottom, 1000km away.
Once down at the canyon carpark my next challenge was to find someone to give me a lift back to the van at Kathleen Springs. This was more difficult than I expected as most people were staying at the resort in the other direction. It was getting late so I decided to walk to the main road where I may have better luck. Luckily someone came along and gave me a welcome lift (I was pretty burnt out) halfway to the main road. We reached my van and I unloaded and headed for a free camp 75km east.
Drove 75km
Hiked 14.4km including 268m ascent
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| Good morning |
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| Off I go |
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| Beehives looming |
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| Getting closer |
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| Up close. Fantastic |
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| Farewell Watarrka |
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| New free camp |
Hike deets (full trek distance)
Day 44 - 20/7/2022
A full day of recovery after a whirlwind couple of days.
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| Impressive eucalypt |
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| Grey Falcon |
Day 45 - 21/7/2022
Headed toward Henbury Meteorite Crater campground along Ernest Giles Rd. This road was pretty rough going and intersects with the southern end of the Finke River 4x4 route. One of the challenges of camping in National Parks in NT is that it is all via online connection and the network is very sparsely available. I had to drive back to within a short distance from Alice Springs to make a booking then return to the Henbury site.
I then took a short walk to the nearest craters and returned to set up camp after a long day.
Drove 385km
Day 46 - 22/7/2022
Up early for a full tour of the craters. Very interesting indeed. Got back to the van, decamped and headed to Paradise Valley campground. Found a signal 23km north of the turn off and was able to book the campsite. Headed back south to arrive at a very pretty location and decent bush camp with long drop toilet.
Did some near camp wandering along paths to take in the afternoon sights. I was able to scrounge enough firewood to keep me warm by the steel fireplace.
Drove 125km
Hiked 3.1km including 50m ascent
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| Entrance to Paradise Valley |
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| Camp site |
Hike deets
Day 47 - 23/7/2022
Took the time to properly explore the striking landforms off piste. Most enjoyable. Had a friendly magpie drop by to see if I had some morsels to eat. Nada from this vegetarian.
Hiked 6.5km including 169m ascent
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| Campground |
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| From the air |
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| Cute lizard |
Hike deets
Day 48 - 24/7/2022
Headed toward Uluru to stay overnight at Curtin Springs Wayside Inn, the nearest ‘free camp’ to Yulara. Mt Conner soared above the horizon nearby. There also appeared to be a bushfire near my destination.
No fire at Curtin Springs Wayside Inn but they did have some cold beer. The fire wasn’t that far away so everyone had to be ready to evacuate throughout the night.
Drove 310km
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| Heading west |
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| Mt Conner |
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| Fire in the distance |
Day 49 - 25/7/2022
Another big day for me as I hadn’t been to Uluru previously. Also an early start to get to the viewing point 105km away in readiness for sunrise. There was quite a vehicular queue for the ranger gate at 0630.
The car park on the southern side was pretty full. This is where the classic images of the rock are taken. She did not disappoint. After the sun arose a bit more I headed off to the Mala carpark adjacent to the old climbing point. I then walked the base walk counter clockwise.
The south face is the best as you are up close and personal whereas walking along the north face finds you significantly separated. Once completed, it was back to Curtin Springs for the night.
Drove 225km
Hiked 11.1km including 44m ascent
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| Striking silhouette |
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| Kata Tjuta in the distance |
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| The old summit trail |
Hike deets
Day 50 - 26/7/2022
Another early start to get to Kata Tjuta, have a good look around and then travel onward to Docker River / Kaltukatjara for the night.
I considered Kata Tjuta as being much better to hike around and through as you can get up close and personal for quiet contemplation opportunities. The Valley of the Winds trail was a favourite of Central Australia. I also walked Walpa Gorge before heading West toward the WA border.
The road changed from tarmac to gravel soon after leaving the carpark. This was the Great Central Road that runs from Mparntwe to Laverton in WA. Lasseter’s Cave was a point of interest not far from Kaltukatjara where there is an open camp site just west of the settlement.
Drove 330km
Hiked 11.8km including 329m ascent
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| Heading into Kata Tjuta, Valley of the Winds |
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| Heading into Walpa Gorge |
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| Heading west |
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| Looking back to Kata Tjuta |
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| Lasseter’s Cave |
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| Kaltukatjara campground |
Hike deets
Day 51 - 27/7/2022
Spent an extra night at Docker River camping to take a look around. The campground is amongst a stand of Casuarinas with the wind singing within the foliage. Wonderful landscape. I really wanted to go hiking over the other side of the road but I didn’t have a permit.
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| Wonderful landscape |
Day 52 & 53 - 28/7/2022 & 29/7/2022
Back into WA today. Last night’s camp was only 4km from the NT/WA border. The transit permits only allow limited time along the GCR. There are also very few bush campgrounds along the way.
Drove to Warakurna to fuel up, then to Giles Weather Station and onward to Yarla Kutjarra campground along the GCR. It was quite busy here so I found a spot over the other side of the road.
Drove 230km
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| Giles weather station |
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| New camp site |
Day 54 - 30/7/2022
Drove to Warburton to refuel then onward to ‘White Cross’ point of interest and Giles Breakaway campground. No location in between took my fancy to pitch camp. Big day on the road. There is quite a long sealed section near Warburton.
Drove 595km
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| There is a white cross in this pic |
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| Rain! |
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| Giles breakaway |
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| A local in the valley |
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| Stark colours |
Day 55 - 31/7/2022
Spent the day wandering around the lower level of the breakaway area. There was a small settlement in here once. Drone was up as well.
Hiked 4.2km including 49m ascent
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| Good morning |
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| Aerial view |
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| Looking back to the GCR |
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| Along the valley floor |
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| Back up top |
Hike deets
Day 56 - 1/8/2022
Made my way to Gwalia ghost town just outside Leonora. Intriguing preservation of mining life in the 1920’s. A storm was brewing on the horizon so I hot-shotted toward Perth. The weather really closed in and I decided to carry on into the night to get home. Huge driving day in the end, but I wanted to get home to start preparing for my next adventure in Italy later in August.
Drove 1000km
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| Threatening sky |
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Thanks for your interest in my first truly ‘outback’ remote road adventure.
Drove 9780km over 56 days
Rode 29.2km including 194m ascent
Hiked 186.7km including 3437m ascent
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